E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

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BigC
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E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by BigC » Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:13 pm

Another little job completed......

E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Anyone who has ever experienced this phenomenon will fully appreciate that when it happens it becomes a right pain in the neck...essentially what it means is that the fuel tank trim/flap will not close properly, thus making it a problem for the central locking actuator pin from fully engaging into the fuel door trim and rendering the flap, loose and perhaps open to theft. A typical dealer quote for this fairly easy task would be in or around £180+

Tools/Parts Req.
New Fuel Pot Assembly
Trolley Jack or similar
Trolley Jack Adaptor Pad
Trim Removal Tools
6mm Push Rivets (see below for link)
Alloy Wheel Socket
Wheel Brace/Bar or Torque Wrench
8 & 10mm Torx Screwdriver
Gloves


Time to complete:- Approx 80 mins

In the following walkthrough I will show you how to perform this little job easily, for perhaps just the price of the replacement part itself (£21) which I’m sure you’ll agree is quite a saving.

Image
The result of a broken fuel pot spring – fuel door trim ajar, not locking properly


The door is flimsy and lifeless and doesn’t snap shut as it once did.

The first task, for me was, to separate the actual metal fuel door trim from the plastic flap on the pot...this is quite a simple job to perform by simply pulling the plastic arm (see pic below) with the little locating spud outward and simply pull/slide the metal trim toward you.

Image
To remove the fuel door trim pull the flange arrowed outward and slide off.

Image
Old pot arm with trim removed

Image
Fuel door trim, Front

Image
Rear of the fuel door trim

The next little job on the agenda was the removal of the central locking actuator pin guide.
This needs a quarter turn in an anti-clockwise direction to release.


Image
Even with the petrol cap removed I thought I could get some long-nose pliers in to manoeuvre this grommet round, but the space is limited and I had to force it round under pressure using only one lug...It can be done but take your time.

Image
The central locking actuator pin guide - removed

OK that’s everything removed that can be removed around the pot area itself, so before we go on to remove the old pot itself, we need to detach the rear wheel and wheel arch liner.

Image

As I have just had my 207 alloys refurbished, I didn’t want to scratch or chip the new coating so I invested in one of these special sockets that protect the surface and stand off the rim a little more to avoid mishaps (recommended by Marco)
Once I got the wheel off I discovered a series of 8mm torx screws, 10mm screw covers and 6mm plastic push rivets that needed to be undone and removed, these I systematically worked my way around until the wheel arch liner was loose enough for me to lever out and gain access to the pot...or so I thought....This to me does NOT necessarily need to be done, but you can do if you want to tidy the rubber seal that goes round the top of the fuel pipe. The reason I feel it does not need to be done is that the pot fits in its own well, a metal box, if you like, so you see there’s no real need to remove the arch liner. (you don’t know these things until you actually perform the job)


Image
One of the 10mm Torx screw covers that holds the arch liner in place.

Image
6mm plastic push rivets, easily removed with some special trim removal tools

Image
6mm Torx screw and 10mm screw covers


Image
Ok we now have everything removed and the liner is pulled back to expose the end of the fuel pipe.
The liner is now nice and loose allowing me to tidy up the rubber seal on the new pot assembly around the neck of the fuel pipe.


All good so far...This next part is all about brute force and ignorance.

At the bottom of the old plastic pot and just inside the rim, knock a hole in the plastic, whilst still attached to the car, gradually widen it until you can get your fingers in...you can’t hurt anything, there’s nothing below this area. Now place your fingers into the hole and give it a good hard pull...you may need to do this a few times until it becomes free. In my mind there is no simple way of doing this other than the above. BMW may have specialist tools for this job but I cant imagine what.

Image
See what I mean about, not much point in removing the wheel arch liner...the pot assembly is encased in its own box area, only a small part of the fuel pipe is accessible

Image
Above depicts the new Pot Assembly...(app £21) Note the wire spring on the elbow, on the right-hand side
That is the only thing that has failed, but unfortunately it is inaccessible hence the need for a complete new part.



Fitting the new pot is all about lining things up precisely before you snap it into place, you will need to insert the shoulder of the new pot containing the hinge on the right-hand side first... then work the external seal onto the cars trim...and the rubber seal over the fuel pipe.... it’s not rocket science, just a little bit of common sense will tell you that you’ll also need to waggle that actuator pin around a little until it fits through the hole on the new pot, (left side) then push the new assembly fully home until it seats into place. Now you can attend to the rubber sealing around the neck of the fuel pipe both from above and underneath to make this neat and tidy.

Image
Taking one’s time to line things up, before pushing the new pot assembly into place.

Image
New pot assembly fitted snugly into place after alignment

Image
The trim is now replaced onto the new pot assembly, in reverse fashion to its removal.


And the door snaps shut as before......

All that remains is to re-attach the wheel arch liner and bolt the wheel back on...
I hope you enjoyed this little walkthrough on how to solve, what seems to be a common problem whilst saving a few pounds in the process.

Image

Here follows a list of the parts and tools I used to perform this task, all part numbers and links have been included for your convenience.

1) New Fuel Pot – 51177068449 – BMMiniparts.

2) Genuine BMW fuel filler cap for petrol models from 1998- with strap 16117193372

3) BMW Plastic Push Rivet Clips Bumper Trim Body Panel Retaining 51111908077
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-PLASTIC-P ... 1053769819" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

4) Genuine PCL 1/2" Alloy Wheel Impact Socket 17mm APA12/17
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-PCL-1 ... 1161172123" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

5) Trolley Jack Adaptor Pad
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-1-SERIES- ... OC:GB:3160" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

6) 3 Piece Plastic Trim Clip REMOVAL TOOL
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Piece-Plast ... OC:GB:3160" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regards
C

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by smithson » Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:46 am

I was told by BMW yesterday - that all you gotta do is drill out those 4 plugs, two top, two bottom - instead of pushing from the underside, then it just pulls straight out!
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by ceejays88 » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:37 pm

Part not available...
Any ideas on where I can get one from?

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by bomber » Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:29 pm

smithson wrote:I was told by BMW yesterday - that all you gotta do is drill out those 4 plugs, two top, two bottom - instead of pushing from the underside, then it just pulls straight out!
Hi
are you meaning these plugs?? (Seems too easy!! :? ) Have you done the job yourself yet?
Image
Presumably the new part comes with new plugs but I can't see any in the new part shown in the box?
Last edited by bomber on Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by smithson » Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:31 pm

bomber wrote:
smithson wrote:I was told by BMW yesterday - that all you gotta do is drill out those 4 plugs, two top, two bottom - instead of pushing from the underside, then it just pulls straight out!
Hi
are you meaning these plugs?? (Seems too easy!! :? ) Have you done the job yourself yet?
Image
Presumably the new part comes with new plugs?
I haven't done it yet - but I plan to do this soon as mine failed last week, £25 for the parts and BMW wanted to charge me £90 labour, so I'll just fit it myself when I have time along with my free £50 handbrake shoes, but we'll keep quiet about them Image
E81 118d M Sport - Gone :cry:
E30 318is - Show car :censored:
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by ceejays88 » Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:32 pm

Looking at it. They are just clips to hold it place. Destroy them and it slides out....

The new one will have new clips that are intact

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by bomber » Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:34 pm

Let the forum know how it goes!
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by Motley2012 » Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:53 am

I never removed my arch liner to do this just drilled the points carefully and unscrewed the locking flap pin.
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by smithson » Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:31 pm

I expect to get the parts tomorrow - then I'll be doing this in a weeks time as I'm in london all weekend!
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by ceejays88 » Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:24 pm

smithson wrote:I expect to get the parts tomorrow - then I'll be doing this in a weeks time as I'm in london all weekend!
How did you get on ?

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by smithson » Thu Feb 19, 2015 8:39 pm

ceejays88 wrote:
smithson wrote:I expect to get the parts tomorrow - then I'll be doing this in a weeks time as I'm in london all weekend!
How did you get on ?
Still waiting on parts :/ back order from germany apparently...
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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by scorchio75 » Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:49 am

I've literally just done this in the last hour, following the four-plug method. Here's what I found:
  • 30 mins? Yes. I did it in about half that, and I was fannying around getting beers and not really focusing on the job at hand

    Take the central locking pin guide out first! I only needed a quarter-turn to get it loose.

    After drilling the four plugs out, push a thin screwdriver through each hole to manipulate/unlatch the four clips residing behind the plugs. (Look at your new part to work out how best to to this.) I didn't - I unlatched the clips using physical force and trim tools and only realised afterwards about using a screwdriver

    Use a couple of trim tools or plastic k*tchen items to keep the edges of the pot unclipped as you work your way around (I went from back of the car to front, as the main mechanism is at the front end of the car and will make it really difficult for you to get leverage otherwise)

    The fit is tight, so you'll need a fair bit of force to pull the existing pot out, even with the clips unlatched

    When you're fitting the new unit, push the main mechanism into the hole to the right, then focus on getting the rubber seal over the fuel pipe: The rest should follow relatively easily once the seal is over the pipe.

    The rubber seal is surprisingly thin at the end that goes over the mouth of the fuel pipe, so if you're using trim tools to push the rubber into place, be very, very careful that you don't tear any of the rubber. Ask me how I know... :oops:

    DONT FORGET TO PUT THE LOCKING PIN BACK! You don't want to get the new pot on to discover that you haven't put the pin back where it was! (Luckily I hadn't made that mistake.)

    Once the pot is in place, lock the car and slide the pin guide back over the now exposed pin and lock the guide in place

    Don't put the exterior trim piece back on until you've fitted and checked that everything else is working as it should
SGM '07 E87 120i (LCI) | De-badged | Short aerial | Blacklines | Eibach Pro Kit
ET35 18x8 DTM M3 reps | M Sport rear and coupé front | M Sport interior trim
Pioneer AVH-X7550BT | Nexus 7 | R/fit cruise control and paddles
Mit viele blinkenlights...

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by ceejays88 » Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:52 pm

scorchio75 wrote:I've literally just done this in the last hour, following the four-plug method. Here's what I found:
  • 30 mins? Yes. I did it in about half that, and I was fannying around getting beers and not really focusing on the job at hand

    Take the central locking pin guide out first! I only needed a quarter-turn to get it loose.

    After drilling the four plugs out, push a thin screwdriver through each hole to manipulate/unlatch the four clips residing behind the plugs. (Look at your new part to work out how best to to this.) I didn't - I unlatched the clips using physical force and trim tools and only realised afterwards about using a screwdriver

    Use a couple of trim tools or plastic k*tchen items to keep the edges of the pot unclipped as you work your way around (I went from back of the car to front, as the main mechanism is at the front end of the car and will make it really difficult for you to get leverage otherwise)

    The fit is tight, so you'll need a fair bit of force to pull the existing pot out, even with the clips unlatched

    When you're fitting the new unit, push the main mechanism into the hole to the right, then focus on getting the rubber seal over the fuel pipe: The rest should follow relatively easily once the seal is over the pipe.

    The rubber seal is surprisingly thin at the end that goes over the mouth of the fuel pipe, so if you're using trim tools to push the rubber into place, be very, very careful that you don't tear any of the rubber. Ask me how I know... :oops:

    DONT FORGET TO PUT THE LOCKING PIN BACK! You don't want to get the new pot on to discover that you haven't put the pin back where it was! (Luckily I hadn't made that mistake.)

    Once the pot is in place, lock the car and slide the pin guide back over the now exposed pin and lock the guide in place

    Don't put the exterior trim piece back on until you've fitted and checked that everything else is working as it should
Great! thanks for the update... I am just waiting on mine to arrive from cotswoldbmw

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by ceejays88 » Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:00 pm

I done mine on Saturday by drilling the holes and it would not budge!

So I started cutting parts away slowly to get it out and I was left with the rim of it on the car... It seems when it was last fixed they had broken the clips so sealed it to the body!

So 2 hours later i managed to get it all off with minimal paint damage!

The new one went on damn easy though :)

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Re: E87 Fuel Pot Spring Failure & Replacement

Post by scorchio75 » Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:03 am

ceejays88 wrote:So I started cutting parts away slowly to get it out and I was left with the rim of it on the car... It seems when it was last fixed they had broken the clips so sealed it to the body!

So 2 hours later i managed to get it all off with minimal paint damage
Ouch! Glad it finally worked out for you!
SGM '07 E87 120i (LCI) | De-badged | Short aerial | Blacklines | Eibach Pro Kit
ET35 18x8 DTM M3 reps | M Sport rear and coupé front | M Sport interior trim
Pioneer AVH-X7550BT | Nexus 7 | R/fit cruise control and paddles
Mit viele blinkenlights...

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