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New member - DGJ's 123d

3K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  DGJ123d 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

So as above I'm new to the forum having just picked up my first BMW last weekend! I've only had one other car that was even slightly performance oriented and that was a Mk 1 Leon Cupra TDI so this is a huge step up!

The car has 130k on the clock but almost all BMW dealer service history and apart from a few stone chips on the front and scuffs on the wheels it's in pretty good condition. It also had a few optional extras that swung me to this particular car.

Specs

Grey E82 123d M-Sport 2008 (58 plate)
18" BMW 261 wheels
Factory xenons
Heated seats
Cruise control
Professional radio
PDC front and rear
Auto wipers/auto lights functions
Brushed aluminium interior trim

Apologies for the autotrader pics...











I'm not sure how much was normal M-Sport fayre but I know the heated seats and xenons add a few thousand to the list price so really pleased with it [emoji4]

Plans are currently to replace the number plates with 3d gel ones as the front plate is down to a very papery layer and needs sorting to freshen things up. Then the car is getting 2 new 215/40/18 Toyo Proxes on the front wheels to replace the run-flats as one has a couple of bulges in the sidewall and the other is completely worn on the outside edge! The rears are already non-RFT, currently on Maxxis AS01s in 245/35/18. After that I'll be running the car for a while and looking to do the following later on:

White LED angel eyes
Carbon front grills
Carbon boot spoiler
Gloss black window trim
Number plates (as above)
Smoked side repeaters
Darkline rear lights
Gear knob replaced with a less worn item
Steering wheel freshened up/replaced as well

I'd love to hear your input in to small things I can look at and try and sort while I'm stuck with my mod-unfriendly insurance company [emoji14] after that ends and I'm with someone more lenient I'll be looking to do all the above and then anything to help tighten the steering/suspension. Any ideas where's best to start, particularly with any OE bits I could look at?

If anyone recognises the car or if it's been on here before I'd be happy to hear about it and I'm looking forward to learning a few things from you guys as I go.

Thanks,

Darren
 
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#3 ·
Thanks Andy!

Yeah both look pretty straightforward, with the camber pins is this worthwhile for daily driving regarding outer tyre wear? Or more for performance purposes?

And can the CDV bypass/delete be done on your own? I saw in the guides that you need someone else pressing the clutch pedal for you while you reconnect everything or is it self bleeding? Sounds like a good idea because I've noticed on downshifts that it can be a bit juddery.

So today I had my tyres changed and it's made a massive difference to the comfort in the few miles I drove home! Potholes and grids are now just breezed over without losing much of the feel of the steering :) I'll consider going up to 225s when the time comes again but I like the mini stretch on the 215s.

You can see below the wear on one of the tyres though the bulges on the other are harder to see





I also got my 3D number plates today but they got the reg wrong [emoji23] so I've been in touch with them to try and get the right ones sorted.
 
#5 ·
marco_polo said:
Camber pin mod is usually done for more even tyre wear, but you do get slightly better handling too.
Sounds like a plan then, will it help eliminate the kind of outer wear seen in the picture I posted?

I had a look through the guide and it looks simple enough, is it a wheels off job or just remove the pin, jack up the car, loosen and position the strut and tighten back up?
 
#7 ·
#11 ·
Cheers mate, really glad I got the grey and the lighter grey still shows all the lines of the car!

I've put a few more miles in the car today and have noticed a bit of a ticking sound on part throttle, it's barely audible on idle and increases with the revs, you can't hear it on full throttle or when above about 3krpm but having read some stories about the timing chain stretch, weak tensioners and cost of preventative treatment if it's any of these it's got me a little nervous! Anyone got any ideas what to look for or how best to diagnose possible issues?

I do have a limited warranty but with the car being higher mileage it's only basic coverage for engine/gearbox and so on and covers about half the labour costs, not sure how much investigation work it covers so want to check things over and rule things out before I spend any more money!
 
#12 ·
Looks really nice mate and doesn't the 123d come with the elsd?
Seen some great vids on YouTube of these drifting, like the idea of drifting a diesel :)
 
#13 ·
git-r2 said:
Looks really nice mate and doesn't the 123d come with the elsd?
Seen some great vids on YouTube of these drifting, like the idea of drifting a diesel :)
Thanks mate :)

Yeah I believe it does but I haven't had chance to try this out yet! It's more of a ESP function that keeps the inside wheel from spinning up more than the outside wheel so that they both move in sync from what I've read on it, should keep things interesting when the wet weather comes! [emoji23]
 
#14 ·
My 3D number plates arrived this week (with the correct reg) so I spent a few mins yesterday fitting them to the car. You can see how papery and faded my old front plate was I comparison!









The back plate was in much better condition but the plastic film was starting to crack at the edges.







They've really lifted the look of the car, makes it look a little fresher. I'll be looking to debadge the rear soon and then focusing on the LED angel eyes and hopefully getting Darkline lights for the rear.
 
#15 ·
I've just completed the camber pin removal as per Marco's guide above and pulled the strut tops in as far as they'll go. There's barely any visible difference with the car back on the ground but hopefully it'll keep me from wearing out tyres so quick and maybe give a slight improvement to overall steering!

I also debadge the rear but no pics I'm afraid, though I'm sure we all know what a debadged 1er looks like :p

That's all for now :)
 
#16 ·
I've been getting a fault code on my dash the last couple of weeks for external lighting failure, I got code CCID 134 of the dash and a quick search revealed this is a fault with the rear light housing unit(s) so I took them out this morning, left one is fine but the right one has some corrosion on the inner bottom connector.



There's also a small pool of moisture in the bottom of the light cluster! As I plan on eventually replacing the rear lights anyway, I've bought a bulb holder unit off ebay that looked in good condition :) hopefully that will get rid of the fault code until I get round to putting some Darklines on there :-D
 
#17 ·
So I swapped out the old rear bulb housing for the replacement one, all bulbs working correctly as before but still getting the CCID 134 code when I start the car...

Is there something I need to clear before this will go away or does it mean the new bulb housing is also faulty? It looked pristine before I put it in!

Thanks for any help guys
 
#18 ·
Well the replacement bulb holder hasn't worked, seems that the outer brake bulb had gone! Luckily I had a spare bulb set knocking about so I swapped.it over and....still not working! :cry:

Anyone know what else could be at fault? All the searches for CCID 134 show faults with the holders as opposed.to the bulbs themselves. Or as above, do I need to reset something first?
 
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