Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

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markhurley
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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by markhurley » Tue Aug 12, 2014 9:43 pm

More pics please car looks great !
130i Birds B1 suspension,M3 front arms,M3 rear arms,Powerflex inserts ,BMWP strut brace,M135i front brake's,BMWP rear brake's, 28mm M3 front roll bar,20mm white line rear roll bar ,Quaife LSD,MPSCup2tyre's.

dr al
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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:10 pm

rob180bhp wrote:Just interested mate
Don't worry, i'm just taking the p*ss.

Very stupidly, the one thing i didn't manage to take a photo of was my jig for pressing out (and in) the subframe bushings. The rest of it's really not that interesting, as you know!

but just for good measure, here you go.


Big box of parts, oil and stuff. I hate to think just how much all that cost alltogether :shock:
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Here's the brakes getting their last coat of colour before decals and lacquer in a friend's garage.
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Here's the old steering rack in situ. You can see the two ASA bolts that hold it in place, and some of the hosing that runs infront of it. Really pretty straight forward to get in and out.
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The two steering racks together, M3 on the top
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Me closest - you can see the servotronic servo on the side
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The front strut off and dismantled with all the old bits lined up in order
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The swivel bearing going onto the new strut - A few quid well spent on this tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-3396-st ... 25827a6b4b made the job infinitely easier and safer
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The two front springs. The eibach is the shorter (and i think is progressive???)
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These spring compressors were £20 off ebay, and did the job really well, but this was one of my least favourite bits, as the grease went everywhere
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the 21mm nut off the top of the front suspension strut came off ok, but you need to hold the central spindle (with an allen key on the koni struts) while you turn the nut. The nyloc that came with the koni struts was 22mm, so i had to dremmel a 22mm long socket and turn it with a big adjustable spanner while i had an allen key down the middle to hold the spindle still. Pain in the ass
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Tension struts. m3=shiny
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LCAs M3=shiny
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In situ
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The eibach rear spring next to the M-sport one (the eibach is clean)
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Exhaust out
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Differential out.
Getting it out is easy enough. 3 bolts between the prop shaft's rubber vibration damper and the front of the dif.
You need quite a long extension to undo the 6 bolts each side holding the half shafts to the dif. You need to remember to do this while the handbrakes are still connected, otherwise it just spins.
3 bolts through bushings hold the dif to the subframe. once they're out it can be lowered down on a jack and gently eased rearwards to disengage the propshaft from the dif.
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Subframe out - see how puny the stock ARB is!
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This is why you need and M3 rear ARB - guess which one is which
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Changing the handbrake pads
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And now some diff bits.
These are the end bits that the half-shafts bolt to. They just press off with a big lever, or screwdriver, or whatever's to hand.
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The casing comes off
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showing the stock dif inside with its (thankfully) bolted crown gear.
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Which (once you've removed the seals, c-clips, outer bearing race and bearings) you can manoeuvre out of the casing. This pic shows the inner bearing race still in situ. It was a biatch to get off. As i mentioned above i had to gently tap it all around to unseat it and lift it about 3mm before my bearing puller could get under to pull it off.
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It's vitally important to keep all the bits of bearing assembly together and on the correct side of the dif. If you mix bits up between the left and right sides of the dif, the tolerances will be out and it'll all go a bit wrong.
The c-clips are actually shims that have been sized to exactly balance the bearings and the slack on the crown gear. Once everything's together you check the backlash in the system to make sure you've not done anything stupid. Mine was well within tolerance. The only things replaced in the dif were the seals (which came with the quaife)
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Changing the crown gear from the old dif to the quaife definitely requires a decent bench vice. I was glad of my 750mm beakers bar for getting those bolts undone. the threadlock was super tight!
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To get the crown gear onto the quaife, you have to submerge it in boiling water to heat it up (and expand it) then get it into place on the quaife and snugged down into place before it cools down, and all this while making sure there's no water trapped in any of the threads.
I borrowed my mate's workshop for doing this bit (as i don't have a bench vice at the moment) and fortunately he has central compressed air. if you do this at home buy a can of air to dry out the threads.

Because quaife have redesigned the unit, it now wiggles into the housing just fine without any assembly in situ (as i believe was required before). Then it's just a case of putting the bearings back in exactly as they were before, fitting the new seals, and putting the cover back on the case (i used loctite liquid gasket (as per realoem's guidance) that i got cheap off ebay.
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Then it was just a case of very carefully jacking it back up into place while mating it with the propshaft, and bolting everything together.
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And that's about it.
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After everything was all completely put back together (after three 15hour days work - i'm a bit slow and pernickety ) it was alignment (which i do myself) and go.

I built a simple (but very accurate) diy laser alignment jig with two measurement bars (the white pipes you see in front and behind the car - each 4m from the centre of the wheel), and a laser spirit level to do the measurement. Doing it this way means any inaccuracies from the laser cancel eachother out, and you can be accurate down to way way less than a minute (60th of a degree) on the toe.
I built a plumbline jig for setting the camber, not quite so accurate, but ok and accurate to a couple of minutes.
Oh - and i stick the wheels i'm adjusting on diy slip plates - two tesco chopping boards with a big splat of grease between them.
Image
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Last edited by dr al on Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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rob180bhp
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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:24 pm

That's better lol and that's me taking the p*ss

A nice write up) and pics to go with it

Yes I can and have done most of it but it's a great read for those who have not

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:26 pm

Cheers, Rob

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:27 pm

Like the laser tracking I have used similar,

But I'm lucky to have a machine in work to use now

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:28 pm

I used it phone when I was temp setting up my rear camber

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:29 pm

Lucky you!
It's accurate, but it really does take ages. I'd love access to a machine! - but with a bit of luck i won't need to change anything for a while!

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:30 pm

My phone's only accurate to 1 degree.

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:30 pm

We had a brand new Hoffman installed a few months ago

It's awesome and so accurate and so easy lol I'm spoilt

Being a tech has many advantages

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:31 pm

I'll take a pic of the machine tommorow lol my turn to take pics

Plus I'm doing my rack and water pump and front splitter over the next 2 weeks so lots of pics to follow

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:39 pm

Ecosse wrote:Great post, be nice to meet up for a local blast one Sunday :)

Dougie.
Absolutely.

Just changed jobs this week, so give it a couple of week then drop me a pm.

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by dr al » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:48 pm

rob180bhp wrote:I'll take a pic of the machine tommorow lol my turn to take pics

Plus I'm doing my rack and water pump and front splitter over the next 2 weeks so lots of pics to follow

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
Great The more DIY there is on this forum the better!

Aftermarket front splitter?
It'll look awesome, but i keep bashing the front of mine off speed bumps (i have no patience) so it'd last 5 mins on my car!

Did you get a decent price on a rack in the end?
My advice while fitting it is try and stick with the 1 series heat shield, the M3 one makes it very difficult to get in and do up the pinch bolt on the steering column.
And like i said in the other thread, i'm running 2 minutes of toe-in instead of the recommended 5 mins (from the m3 spec) I'd take that as your starting point for the road. Before that i had more toe in, and it was really pretty sluggish and heavy at turn in
I've had it this way for a few weeks now, and i've had no tram-lining at all.

I'm not going to bother playing with the servotronic now. I really don't notice the heaviness at all now i've had the rack for a couple of months. I suspect you'll be the same after a few weeks.

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by Ecosse » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:50 pm

dr al wrote:
Ecosse wrote:Great post, be nice to meet up for a local blast one Sunday :)

Dougie.
Absolutely.

Just changed jobs this week, so give it a couple of week then drop me a pm.
I've PM'd another Glasgow member who came on a test drive in my car before going on a six month hunt.

Directed him to this thread.

Be great to meet up, I'd happily pay you to do some select further mods for me :mrgreen:
130i MSport :: BMWP Brakes, Exhaust, Air Intake, Short Shift, Quaife LSD, Front Strut Brace, Bilstein B8 Shocks, M3 LCA's Facelift Darklines.
Pics Here :- http://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=28779" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Glasgow INPA-NCS Coding-DIS Diagnosis

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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:51 pm

Yes I have bought a rack and the pwm controller for the servotronic but as you said doubt I'll use it
And I'll reset all the geometry again, at the moment it's m3 spec and drives nice, but I'll play with it more now we have a machine

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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rob180bhp
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Re: Mods for a fast (country) road 130i

Post by rob180bhp » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:55 pm

Bought off a member on here this weekend
Made by Rieger

Image

........................................
2008-135i jb4 +mods
( Team Rob...............)
E82 wide135i MHD stage 2/f30 brakes/meisterR/m3 everything / Vrsf
Instagram "rob180bhp"

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