I've now completed the retrofit of Cruise Control to my 09 118d Sport Coupé. Not at all difficult - apologies for having no photos, but I had no camera with me when I did it!
I'd advise having the car booked in for the necessary coding before you start though.
You need (these are for my model, best check if yours needs the same!):
61319123040 - the complete steering column switch unit
61316950263 - the lower half of the steering column shroud
(You do NOT need the top half!)
I got them from a UK dealer with 10% off, and paid £297.20 + VAT and £16.92 + VAT respectively, but they'd be slightly cheaper ordering online at eshop.original-teile.de I think.
Disconnect the battery negative before you start!
Do all of this with the wheels in the straight ahead postion and do not move it.
Remove the airbag from the steering wheel using a flat-bladed screwdriver of about 5mm width; plenty instructions elsewhere on the forum on how to do that, and having read them, I found it easy - took about 2 minutes.
When it's loose, there are two cables plugged into it - disconnect them, by first lifting the black locking tabs up and away from the connector body (watch this part - at least some of the instructions elsewhere neglect to say that you have to lift the tabs first!) then the connectors pull straight out. That lets you set the airbag aside.
Disconnect the two connectors that you can see at the top of the wheel; again these have locking tabs, easy to see, though of a different sort - a small flat-bladed screwdriver will lift them.
Lock the steering column as far up towards your face, but down from the dash, as it will go.
Undo the 16mm bolt holding the wheel on. Note the mark at the bottom of the hole in the wheel next to the splines for lining it up correctly. Lift the wheel off.
Now you can remove the two halves of the plastic shroud round the steering column; there are no screws - they simply clip together. Take the top one off FIRST, leaving the bottom one in place for the moment! The best way I found to separate them is to place the sharp side of a new Stanley knife blade in the joint and twist it while gently pushing the top half of the housing upwards, doing one side at a time. The top half has a plastic bar with vinyl cloth attached at the bottom; the bar has four lugs that pass through the top half of the housing. Simply squeeze the lugs with your fingers and push them out (self explanatory when you see it!). Now remove the bottom half of the housing - it has two clips that go onto the switch unit, one on each side, so look for them and ease them back - having done that, it lifts away.
Remove the old switchgear; four T20 self tappers hold it on. Remove those, lift it up the column a little to allow you to disconnect the wiring plugs, then lift all the way off.
Replace with the new one, making sure it's seated properly before screwing in the four torx screws. Refit the two halves of the shroud, again self explantory, then the wheel and the wiring. I don't know the correct torque setting for the wheel, so I used my best judgement. Reconnect the airbag and clip it back in. Job done and time to reconnect the battery.
Now you best be aware - until you get this coded, your dash will be lit up like a Christmas tree with warning lights, DSC will not work, along with several other systems, the steering will not self-centre nicely, and your indicators will not self cancel. (Which is why I said have the coding appointment booked first!!) However, I found no difficulty in driving it like that.
Time to do the full thing? Half an hour.
Coding can be done as a total ripoff by your local BMW Stealer (ours charge £105 + VAT and hour, so they'll not see a penny of my money!) who'll probably claim it takes a couple of hours. I had mine done (I'm in central Scotland) by an Autologic dealer. It should take around 30 minutes start to finish, but it actually took an hour and a half, because although the Autologic tool has a selection for doing just a retrofit of the Cruise control, this did not work, despite doing it three times; in the end, it required all 15 (on my car) modules to be recoded, which worked no problem. Had the chap doing mine known that, as I say, it would have been a 30 minute job. Cost to me was an hour and a half at £39.50 + VAT an hour - £69.61, which is rather better than the BMW stealer would have charged!
All warning lights out, indicators self cancelling, steering as normal, Cruise Control now working as intended!
Hope this is of help to anybody who wants to do it!
Jim
I'd advise having the car booked in for the necessary coding before you start though.
You need (these are for my model, best check if yours needs the same!):
61319123040 - the complete steering column switch unit
61316950263 - the lower half of the steering column shroud
(You do NOT need the top half!)
I got them from a UK dealer with 10% off, and paid £297.20 + VAT and £16.92 + VAT respectively, but they'd be slightly cheaper ordering online at eshop.original-teile.de I think.
Disconnect the battery negative before you start!
Do all of this with the wheels in the straight ahead postion and do not move it.
Remove the airbag from the steering wheel using a flat-bladed screwdriver of about 5mm width; plenty instructions elsewhere on the forum on how to do that, and having read them, I found it easy - took about 2 minutes.
When it's loose, there are two cables plugged into it - disconnect them, by first lifting the black locking tabs up and away from the connector body (watch this part - at least some of the instructions elsewhere neglect to say that you have to lift the tabs first!) then the connectors pull straight out. That lets you set the airbag aside.
Disconnect the two connectors that you can see at the top of the wheel; again these have locking tabs, easy to see, though of a different sort - a small flat-bladed screwdriver will lift them.
Lock the steering column as far up towards your face, but down from the dash, as it will go.
Undo the 16mm bolt holding the wheel on. Note the mark at the bottom of the hole in the wheel next to the splines for lining it up correctly. Lift the wheel off.
Now you can remove the two halves of the plastic shroud round the steering column; there are no screws - they simply clip together. Take the top one off FIRST, leaving the bottom one in place for the moment! The best way I found to separate them is to place the sharp side of a new Stanley knife blade in the joint and twist it while gently pushing the top half of the housing upwards, doing one side at a time. The top half has a plastic bar with vinyl cloth attached at the bottom; the bar has four lugs that pass through the top half of the housing. Simply squeeze the lugs with your fingers and push them out (self explanatory when you see it!). Now remove the bottom half of the housing - it has two clips that go onto the switch unit, one on each side, so look for them and ease them back - having done that, it lifts away.
Remove the old switchgear; four T20 self tappers hold it on. Remove those, lift it up the column a little to allow you to disconnect the wiring plugs, then lift all the way off.
Replace with the new one, making sure it's seated properly before screwing in the four torx screws. Refit the two halves of the shroud, again self explantory, then the wheel and the wiring. I don't know the correct torque setting for the wheel, so I used my best judgement. Reconnect the airbag and clip it back in. Job done and time to reconnect the battery.
Now you best be aware - until you get this coded, your dash will be lit up like a Christmas tree with warning lights, DSC will not work, along with several other systems, the steering will not self-centre nicely, and your indicators will not self cancel. (Which is why I said have the coding appointment booked first!!) However, I found no difficulty in driving it like that.
Time to do the full thing? Half an hour.
Coding can be done as a total ripoff by your local BMW Stealer (ours charge £105 + VAT and hour, so they'll not see a penny of my money!) who'll probably claim it takes a couple of hours. I had mine done (I'm in central Scotland) by an Autologic dealer. It should take around 30 minutes start to finish, but it actually took an hour and a half, because although the Autologic tool has a selection for doing just a retrofit of the Cruise control, this did not work, despite doing it three times; in the end, it required all 15 (on my car) modules to be recoded, which worked no problem. Had the chap doing mine known that, as I say, it would have been a 30 minute job. Cost to me was an hour and a half at £39.50 + VAT an hour - £69.61, which is rather better than the BMW stealer would have charged!
All warning lights out, indicators self cancelling, steering as normal, Cruise Control now working as intended!
Hope this is of help to anybody who wants to do it!
Jim