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How To: Fitting Downpipes on N54 RHD

9K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  gmx 
#1 ·
So today I fitted some Wagner tuning downpipes as I read places that they fitted well and they have been designed to be used with RHD 135's

This is a picture heavy thread so I hope this will help someone either fitting or choosing weather to take to a garage :lol2:

This is the way I completed this job so if you think I've done something incorrectly please don't lay the hate at me just be nice please, also I'll mention the tools I've used to complete the task I'm sure they are other ways of doing it.

This is quite long winded but I've tried to be as detailed as possible. There's proberly things I've missed but nothing major.

First step is to remove the under tray which is held by a lot of screws with an 8mm socket on a ratchet (didn't get a pic, shouldn't really need one)

After removing the tray I then went onto the steering rack bolts. These bolts are E14 and there is a nut on top which is a 16mm which I held with a spanner







Next was to remove the heat shield bolt which was a 8mm (located in the middle of the photo). There are also 2 T25 torx screws which hold on the other side of the heat shield, however I did not remove these as they were siezed and for me didn't make to much difference with it out the way or not.



Then was to release the front downpipe from the turbo. I did this by moving the steering rack forward and the bolt was located at that angle but BMW have replaced the turbo's and downpipes 5 months ago so may be different on your car. This bolts was undone with a 13mm socket extension and ratchet.



I then removed the 4 12mm nuts,



Next is to remove the centre exhaust mount. This is done with an E10 socket and a 13mm spanner. Once undone rear exhaust will drop.



Then I removed the 13mm nut holding the rear section of the down pipe off. A bit of wiggling is needed to remove stud from bracket but it does come off. Picture is bad unfortunately and I'd removed the nut but you can see the bracket.



Once the back has dropped and front has released I then tackled the oxygen sensor. With 2 pairs of hands you can do it from the top with somebody underneath supporting it with a oxygen sensor tool but I was on my own on the removal. A mechanic friend came after I removed for some morale support and laughing and offered a hand which made it a lot simpiler to put back together.

I cracked off the oxygen sensor in the end after some faff with a 22mm spanner underneath which can be accessed with some wiggling.



Next I removed the rear oxygen sensor with a O2 sensor removal tool (in later picture)



Voilà, you have yourself the front downpipe.



The rear downpipe is when it becomes a tad trickier. The oxygen sensor was a pig to crack off as it was extremely tight. I tried with the tool but couldn't crack it off so I then tried with a 22mm spanner from the gap created by the removal of the front DP. Unfortunately that was too long so ended up using I tool I've never had to use in 5 years of being a mechanic but it saved me today.





Then the rear oxygen sensor was removed, this was easier than expected as BMW had left it loose, halfway between in and out :lol2: thanks



Next was to release the bolt holding the rear DP on. I have a dinky 3/8 which cracked off but was just too big to move back and forth so ended up using a dinky 13mm spanner. Poor picture, my bad.



Another 13mm nut holding the rear section of the DP to the bracket



And Voilá, both pipes with the new ones.



The turbo's, couldn't help but take a picture



Upon reinstalling the clamps for the DP's are a bit of a pain but with a lot of jiggling and a mate holding the clamp from up top it went back on.

You will need some 13mm headed bolts for the rear bracket on the new ones as there aren't studs and they aren't supplied.



Fitted



My front DP didn't fit very well, my luck but I had to shave one of the gearbox mount bolts and then it fitted. Plenty of faff involved with it being installed and then having to remove the clamp and oxygen sensor again but that seemed the best option with my car in pieces on a Easter Friday.

All fitted up.



Then start car up, before reinstalling under tray to check everything has sealed.

Hope this has helped some people. I'm sorry for the boring grammar but I'm not one for making writing interesting :lol2: also the pictures are quite poor but I was using my iPhone so I hope you can make out everything.

I total took me around 4 hours to complete with some faffing about but it's all in again.

Any questions feel free to ask!!
 
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#4 ·
rob180bhp said:
Nice work there

When can i book mine in lol
Lol now you can't say your not doing it!! Tbf it's not that bad if everything fitted it would of been a nicer job!!

On thee other hand I wouldn't do another :lol2:

Rich196 said:
wow nice write up!
Thank you!!
 
#10 ·
I have been reading up and talking to a race team who are at rockingham on Monday today and they were telling me that it's not a good idea to run it as it can do detrimental things to the engine - something about lack of oil to the sump?

Sort of put me off the idea speaking to them
 
#23 ·
Very nice. Not a job for me on my drive though, it would have to go in to a garage and 4 hours labour adds another £300 to the price.
Still want them though!
 
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