Hey everyone
Here's a how to on how I removed my inlet manifold. I did this as I wanted to clean it up as they are well known for gumming up, as well as checking the condition of the swirl flaps. My cam cover gasket was also leaking so this is part 1 of that procedure too.
Before I start, just bare in mind this is the way I did things, there may be other ways that are better/faster, this is just the way I saw best.
Also you attempt this at your own risk, and any damage you cause is your own fault. This is only a guide to help!
Tools required
-general socket set. I used a halfords 170 piece set. A range of normal and deep will help.
-torx bit set.
-torx sockets (they have the letter E on them eg.E10, E12 etc)
-general screw driver set
-standard tools like pliers, scraper etc
-rags
-cleaning fluid (eg degreaser)
Guide
-First remove the negative battery terminal in the boot. 10mm nut.
-Next remove the acoustic engine cover and the front air scoop. Cover just pulls off, and 2 T20 bolts.
-Remove the filter housing under the windscreen. 6 8mm bolts.
-Remove the vac tube holder and the windscreen cowel. 2 8mm bolts and unplug 2 electrical plugs.
-Remove the vac tube and alternator power cable and put to 1 side. 2 push clips and a 13mm nut on the alternator.
-Next the 2 strut braces need to be removed. These are held in place with a central E18 bolt (under small cover) and a E14 bolt either side.
-The rear acoustic carpet now needs removed. Remove the 2 plastic rivet popper clips and the carpet just pulls out.
-You can start unplugging all the plugs now so we can move the wiring harness to get access to remove the manifold. I counted 6 plugs at the front, 4 from the alternator area, the 4 injector plugs and 2 from the centre. Here are also 4 bolts holding the harness in place. A small torx at the front(I used a 4.5mm socket as I didn't have an E socket that small), 2 10mm bolts attaching the harness to the inlet and a 8mm bolts at the rear left of the engine. This allows movement in the harness.
-To remove the injector plugs from the cam cover I had to remove the centre fuel rail holder to allow the plugs to slip through. This is held on with 2 E10 bolts.
-The wiring harness can now be manipulated out the way. I used a bit of string and tied it up so it didn't get in the way.
-Remove the inlet pipe from the inter cooler to throttle body. This is held in place by 2 spring clips that can be removed with a flat head screw driver. Can be a bit fiddly. There is also an electrical plug on this pipe to remove.
-The inlet manifold can now be removed. This is only help on with 5 10mm bolts. Loosen all 5 (they won't pull out of the holes as they are non removable and always stay attached to the manifold). When all are undone you can lift the manifold out. Be careful as you now have to reach around and under the manifold to release a few clips that cables and hoses are attached to, aswell as unplugging the throttle body plug.
-It's out!!! You can now strip the components off it and begin cleaning. The throttle body is held on with 3 5mm Allen bolts, the pipe under the manifold is held on with 2 T20 bolts, and the swirl flap actuator is held on with 3 T30/35 bolts.
-As you can see mine was quiet bad! My car has done just under 60k so it's worth doing if your around this or higher. I cleaned mine using degreaser, rags, brushes, screwdriver to scrape etc. Takes a while but worth it.
-Refitting is the same as removal but in reverse of course. The tightening torque of the manifold bolts are 5nm mating, and 15nm final tightening.
And that's it! Next guide will be from here to removing the cam cover.
I hope this helps a few people. And mistakes I've made please let me know.
Thanks
Greg
Here's a how to on how I removed my inlet manifold. I did this as I wanted to clean it up as they are well known for gumming up, as well as checking the condition of the swirl flaps. My cam cover gasket was also leaking so this is part 1 of that procedure too.
Before I start, just bare in mind this is the way I did things, there may be other ways that are better/faster, this is just the way I saw best.
Also you attempt this at your own risk, and any damage you cause is your own fault. This is only a guide to help!
Tools required
-general socket set. I used a halfords 170 piece set. A range of normal and deep will help.
-torx bit set.
-torx sockets (they have the letter E on them eg.E10, E12 etc)
-general screw driver set
-standard tools like pliers, scraper etc
-rags
-cleaning fluid (eg degreaser)
Guide
-First remove the negative battery terminal in the boot. 10mm nut.
-Next remove the acoustic engine cover and the front air scoop. Cover just pulls off, and 2 T20 bolts.
-Remove the filter housing under the windscreen. 6 8mm bolts.
-Remove the vac tube holder and the windscreen cowel. 2 8mm bolts and unplug 2 electrical plugs.
-Remove the vac tube and alternator power cable and put to 1 side. 2 push clips and a 13mm nut on the alternator.
-Next the 2 strut braces need to be removed. These are held in place with a central E18 bolt (under small cover) and a E14 bolt either side.
-The rear acoustic carpet now needs removed. Remove the 2 plastic rivet popper clips and the carpet just pulls out.
-You can start unplugging all the plugs now so we can move the wiring harness to get access to remove the manifold. I counted 6 plugs at the front, 4 from the alternator area, the 4 injector plugs and 2 from the centre. Here are also 4 bolts holding the harness in place. A small torx at the front(I used a 4.5mm socket as I didn't have an E socket that small), 2 10mm bolts attaching the harness to the inlet and a 8mm bolts at the rear left of the engine. This allows movement in the harness.
-To remove the injector plugs from the cam cover I had to remove the centre fuel rail holder to allow the plugs to slip through. This is held on with 2 E10 bolts.
-The wiring harness can now be manipulated out the way. I used a bit of string and tied it up so it didn't get in the way.
-Remove the inlet pipe from the inter cooler to throttle body. This is held in place by 2 spring clips that can be removed with a flat head screw driver. Can be a bit fiddly. There is also an electrical plug on this pipe to remove.
-The inlet manifold can now be removed. This is only help on with 5 10mm bolts. Loosen all 5 (they won't pull out of the holes as they are non removable and always stay attached to the manifold). When all are undone you can lift the manifold out. Be careful as you now have to reach around and under the manifold to release a few clips that cables and hoses are attached to, aswell as unplugging the throttle body plug.
-It's out!!! You can now strip the components off it and begin cleaning. The throttle body is held on with 3 5mm Allen bolts, the pipe under the manifold is held on with 2 T20 bolts, and the swirl flap actuator is held on with 3 T30/35 bolts.
-As you can see mine was quiet bad! My car has done just under 60k so it's worth doing if your around this or higher. I cleaned mine using degreaser, rags, brushes, screwdriver to scrape etc. Takes a while but worth it.
-Refitting is the same as removal but in reverse of course. The tightening torque of the manifold bolts are 5nm mating, and 15nm final tightening.
And that's it! Next guide will be from here to removing the cam cover.
I hope this helps a few people. And mistakes I've made please let me know.
Thanks
Greg