Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

How to look after your paintwork

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Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Blackroc » Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:13 pm

Time to top up your hard work with a long lasting and glossy protection! 8-)

The best way to a fantastic car finish is through the preparation stage, and that is absolutely true. However, a good wax or sealant gives a final 20% of your finish, and can make or break a look. If you thoroughly cleaned the paintwork properly, its fair to say a £5 wax from Asda will look great, and also proves that spending £300 or £1000 on a wax is not necessarily needed for what you want from your cars looks. Quality waxes WILL give you better clarity, gloss and protection over cheaper waxes and thats where your money will go. I'll discuss the 'surely a £300 wax is better than a £50 wax' argument as I go...

So what are the differences between Waxes and Sealants?

Waxes:
Image

Image


Sealants:
Image

Image

The basics of it are -

Waxes are produced using natural materials and are 'crafted'
Sealants are chemically manufactured in a lab

Both give great but VERY different looks to your paint.

You can put a wax over a sealant to give a slightly different finish than normal, but not the other way around..

Waxes bead better and longer, sealants do bead, some very well, but there main design is to sheet and repel water far better than a wax ever will.

Waxes have been around for years, and dependent on the look you want, contain more or less carnauba than others, and also more oils in them to give the 'wet look'. More oils = a wetter look finish, but give less longevity in the end. The R222 Concours wax above is buttery soft, and as long as you apply it thinly is a doddle to remove again after a few minutes. Now it gives a very deep, glossy wet look finish, its one of the best show finish waxes on the market, but protection drops after only a few weeks. The look is a very intense, deep look, and the reflection are out of this world - only you know however if you really want to keep applying it every week!!!

Carnuaba (wax) is graded like gold is in rings - the higher the grade, the purer the wax and the more 'glowy' as an effect you get in the finish. A wax is designed to give a 'warm glow' when applied, and to some, this is the ultimate in look that they want in their car.

A waxes length of protection varies massively - and especially in the winter. Even good quality wax will not last longer than 10 weeks in salty conditions, it eats through the protection very, very quickly. Ive used many different waxes, and achieved some stunning results with them, but never got more than about 10 weeks on my daily drivers before the need to re-aply the wax.

Sealants are totally chemically engineered, and give a different look and feel to the car. They provide a very 'glassy' finish to paintwork, wheels and metalwork. They are spectacularly easy to apply..

Auto Finesse Tough Coat:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMvlCNf__0w" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A whole car can be coated, and buffed in well under 20 minutes with awesome shine and a good 2 months protection. In fact - I went through November to March on Tough Coat by a simple squirt over the panels and a wipe down every wash. Its a great product - but the market is constantly changing with these sort of products as the competition is fierce. Sealants really are best on light coloured cars, and metallics (the chemicals react superbly with metallic flake popping to bring out a stunning finish) - however they will work on any colour car

Image

Sealants I'd highly recommend - Auto Finesse Tough Coat, CarPro Reload and GTechniq C2v3

Longer lasting sealants are now available, as they bond to the paint better and offer much better performance over a longer period of time - the Gtechniq / Wolfs / Autobright manufacturers are all putting out products as simple and easy to use as Tough Coat - but offering up to 12 months of protection from a simple wipe over of the product on your paintwork :o 8-)

Ceramic sealants are also on the market now, offering up to 2 years of protection, and also an ability to shrug off minor marks and damage to your paint, protecting paintwork from swirls and stone chips.

http://www.juicydetailing.co.uk/sealant ... s.tpl.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The down side to all this protection from CQuartz - is that it can not be applied at home. You need it applied in a temperature controlled environment, with a face mask and away from moisture. It has to be applied professionally and by an authorised user, otherwise its just too temperamental to get right.

Hybrid Waxes -

Image

These are also relatively new, and mix the look and feel of a traditional Wax, with the look and finish of a sealant. Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid is without a doubt one of the best of these products on the market, regardless of cost. The looks are amazing, and you get a good 6 months of longevity out of it. This is my normal personal choice of LSP on whatever I'm working on - great finish and depth to the product!

Image

Image

8-)

So which is better - wax or sealant? Personally I use more sealants on cars than waxes, from a looks and protection level basis. I do enjoy waxing a car though and Bouncers 22 is my 'high end' wax, and its a stunning product in all price brackets, created by a car enthusiast like ourselves.

So to answer the question about 'is a £300 wax better than a £50 one'....

There are some very VERY good waxes and sealants out their nowadays, and they don't have to cost more than £50....and personally Ive not had a desire to go out and spend £300 on a wax. Ive seen them used and they certainly do not give a finish that to my eyes warrants the extra cost. Swissvaz, Zymol (to name but a few) use all sorts of marketing, and brand awareness to get you to believe that these products are a 1000 times better than say AutoGlym HD wax. I guess its like fashion in a way - If you pay £200 for a pair of quality jeans from a branded store, then you are buying into what the brand represents - its image, its uniqueness and the name. Swissvax and Zymol are no different.

http://www.mitchellandking.com/luxuryca ... ly-car-wax" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

See what I mean..... :shock: :lol:

The important thing to remember with waxes, is always apply them THINLY......apply it too thick and you will need arms like Popeye to remove it! They usually only take 5 minutes to haze over before they are ready to buff, but use the finger swipe test to check that it is ready - if it comes off using your finger - its ready to buff 8)

I use finger applicators to apply waxes - they make using a pot and applying the wax easy :)

http://www.monzacarcare.com/special-off ... cator-/24/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Quirks..

Some waxes are designed to 'gloss' an hour after they have been applied - Supernatural Hybrid is one of them -this is perfectly normal for it to look better later on after application. 'Gasing' is a process you may have heard of too - waxes because they are natural 'breath' slightly - and you may spot the odd patch of car (particularly on darker cars) where you get a patch that needs re-buffing a few days after you have detailed a car. This again is normal, and just a quirk of some higher grade waxes :)
Last edited by Blackroc on Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by mikehunt » Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:45 pm

Very interesting. Thank you. I get good results with Turtle Wax Ice and a top up after every couple of washes with their detailing spray.

:)

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by sonicvanman » Tue Jun 11, 2013 4:44 pm

Nice right up James, its always good to get good clear helpful advice as you helped me when i wasn't sure of the difference between the two.

The Klean care Fk1000 sealant i used was very easy to apply & buffs off pretty easy, it seems to disperse water very well but doest bead up much & leaves small beads only & doesnt give off a deep deep shine but it will do the job of long lasting layers & i plan to put a layer of wax on, on friday to get a deeper shine & the nice beading i miss, i have a bit of Autobright Obsession left which is pretty good or some of my mates Farécla G3 but thats nit amazing & doesnt last more than 1-2 weeks but it will have to do till after the Northern romp.

P.s i think you should mention about the tar & break fall out products will remover all of the sealants or wax as many want know like i didnt till i asked you :)

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by marco_polo » Tue Jun 11, 2013 4:46 pm

sonicvanman wrote:P.s i think you should mention about the tar & break fall out products will remover all of the sealants or wax as many want know like i didnt till i asked you :)
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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by sonicvanman » Tue Jun 11, 2013 4:54 pm

Are ye if you read it fully it does explain it removes all & to only use when doing the full job :)

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Blackroc » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:48 pm

sonicvanman wrote:Are ye if you read it fully it does explain it removes all & to only use when doing the full job :)
In English Nick??!! Lol ;-)

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Tiggstar1 » Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:45 pm

Thanks for this write up, very informative
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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Tux » Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:56 pm

Nice write up with pictures too.

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Blackroc » Wed Jun 12, 2013 8:09 pm

You are all welcome :-)

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Re: *STICKY* Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by sonicvanman » Wed Jun 12, 2013 10:13 pm

Blackroc wrote:
sonicvanman wrote:Are ye if you read it fully it does explain it removes all & to only use when doing the full job :)
In English Nick??!! Lol ;-)
So it was a reply to Marco about iron x/ purple rain & it removing all of the sealant or wax, he then linked to your wash & prep sticky which explained to only use if you are doing the full job & re applying the sealant & wax.

I did write a different comment but edited after reading it fully.

You should be used to my posts not making sense by now ;)

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Re: Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Tiggstar1 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:54 pm

what applicator pad is better to apply sealant, microfibre or sponge?
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Re: Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Blackroc » Sun Jun 16, 2013 12:29 am

Tiggstar1 wrote:what applicator pad is better to apply sealant, microfibre or sponge?
Sponge. Although, some sealants (Carpro Reload and GTechniq c2v3 for example..) are applied by spraying the surface and then wiping with a microfibre until buffed clear.

I keep microfibre applicator ones for polish :-)

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Re: Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by EB2429 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:02 am

Thanks very much for the info, never understood what the diff was between sealants and waxes, but now I do!

Think i might try that Auto Finesse next time.
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Re: Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Johnny Mac » Mon Jul 01, 2013 4:39 pm

Which wax would you recommend for wheels? I was thinking of buying either poorboy's wheel sealant or collinite 476s.
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Re: Waxes, Sealants and Hybrids

Post by Blackroc » Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:09 pm

Johnny Mac wrote:Which wax would you recommend for wheels? I was thinking of buying either poorboy's wheel sealant or collinite 476s.
Neither of them - Planet Polish Wheel Seal and Shine if you want a wheel wax, Carpro Reload if you want a spray sealant that wipes on, leave for 5 then wipe off

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