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E87 LCI Rear Lights - How to have the bars light up?

69K views 94 replies 21 participants last post by  C3_ 
#1 ·
As the title states, I've got these lights (Which are the low versions, I assume, because I don't have Xenons).



How do I go about having the bars lighting up as per these images? I would like them to be DRL's for the rear as I already have my sidelights coded to be DRL's at the front (for when I refit my custom quad projector angel eye headlights):





I did a search but nothing came up for LCI, only pre-LCI.
 
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#77 ·
Smokeyjaguar said:
Just installed LCI rear lights with the LED on my 2006 e87 non xenon. is it possible to code out the halogens on FRM1?

Add +MUEB to VO in CAS and FRM? what lines do I have to change in FRM after that? bit confused with this any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you scroll up to my earlier post those are the values to change in frm1. You don't need to change the VO in CAS and FRM. Just edit the frm to those values and that is all.
 
#78 ·
smith-n7 said:
Smokeyjaguar said:
Just installed LCI rear lights with the LED on my 2006 e87 non xenon. is it possible to code out the halogens on FRM1?

Add +MUEB to VO in CAS and FRM? what lines do I have to change in FRM after that? bit confused with this any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you scroll up to my earlier post those are the values to change in frm1. You don't need to change the VO in CAS and FRM. Just edit the frm to those values and that is all.
😳 Thanks mate i will try that later when i get home. I was looking for the lines in ncs dummy but couldn't find them.
 
#79 ·
smith-n7 said:
Smokeyjaguar said:
Just installed LCI rear lights with the LED on my 2006 e87 non xenon. is it possible to code out the halogens on FRM1?

Add +MUEB to VO in CAS and FRM? what lines do I have to change in FRM after that? bit confused with this any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you scroll up to my earlier post those are the values to change in frm1. You don't need to change the VO in CAS and FRM. Just edit the frm to those values and that is all.
Thanks again smith-n7 lights are sorted now. :D
 
#80 ·
greeting, earthlings! :) i'm new here, from zagreb, croatia! i read this post a couple of times, my english isn't so bad but a man gets lost in al these q&a, so just to make sure if i got this correctly - my car is 118d e87 2007 LCI, non xenon. i assume my rears are low (saw the picture a few pages back, looks like lows), so - can i get the leds somehow into this thing or is the proper procedure to buy some highs and work on it then?

i'm sorry if my question is repeated, but as i said - not a domestic brit so i got a little lost in all this info.

thank you.
 
#81 ·
sladoled said:
greeting, earthlings! :) i'm new here, from zagreb, croatia! i read this post a couple of times, my english isn't so bad but a man gets lost in al these q&a, so just to make sure if i got this correctly - my car is 118d e87 2007 LCI, non xenon. i assume my rears are low (saw the picture a few pages back, looks like lows), so - can i get the leds somehow into this thing or is the proper procedure to buy some highs and work on it then?

i'm sorry if my question is repeated, but as i said - not a domestic brit so i got a little lost in all this info.

thank you.
Hello

You need high-line darklines for the LED Bars.
Part No: 63210432620

Coding values as per bjt's post or use something like Carly app.
 
#85 ·
bjt said:
LanceG said:
Anybody have the part number for spade terminal and wire?

I want to make sure I get the correct parts ready.
61138364832 is the terminal, you will need some 0.75mm2 wire too.
When you say "0.75mm2 wire" do you mean 2-core wire ??
 
#87 ·
bjt said:
LanceG said:
When you say "0.75mm2 wire" do you mean 2-core wire ??
No, single core, at least 0.75 thick.
ok, So this is what I got which I pray is suitable?


When it comes to connecting the wire to the license plate light is soldering compulsory? or can I use the "I dont have a soldering machine" method. i.e:
- Use my wire stripper to expose the license plate wire from its shielding
- Connect the new wires and wrap it around the license plate wire securely similar to this...

- Use insulation tape to cover and secure new connections?

Sorry for being annoying - I promise I have no more questions after :eek2: I just don't want to cause electrical problems and have a renault clio looking rear where the indicators come on as I brake :lol2: .
 
#88 ·
Followed the instructions to a T and the bars didn't light up so I thought the light was faulty :jawdrop:

Did Andre2004's method and they lit up so I'm confident the bars work



PHEW!!

What other wires can I tap into??? :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
#91 ·
LanceG said:
When it comes to connecting the wire to the license plate light is soldering compulsory? or can I use the "I dont have a soldering machine" method. i.e:
- Use my wire stripper to expose the license plate wire from its shielding
- Connect the new wires and wrap it around the license plate wire securely similar to this...
- Use insulation tape to cover and secure new connections?

Sorry for being annoying - I promise I have no more questions after :eek2: I just don't want to cause electrical problems and have a renault clio looking rear where the indicators come on as I brake :lol2: .
I wouldn't use that method... You can buy a soldering machine, they're not expensive, and you have videos online on how to solder, it's easy, trust me.

Or instead, I would buy some "cable lock crimp" or .

I'm sorry I can't help you about the license plate light, it's weird...
 
#92 ·
supercati said:
LanceG said:
When it comes to connecting the wire to the license plate light is soldering compulsory? or can I use the "I dont have a soldering machine" method. i.e:
- Use my wire stripper to expose the license plate wire from its shielding
- Connect the new wires and wrap it around the license plate wire securely similar to this...
- Use insulation tape to cover and secure new connections?

Sorry for being annoying - I promise I have no more questions after :eek2: I just don't want to cause electrical problems and have a renault clio looking rear where the indicators come on as I brake :lol2: .
I wouldn't use that method... You can buy a soldering machine, they're not expensive, and you have videos online on how to solder, it's easy, trust me.

Or instead, I would buy some "cable lock crimp" or .

I'm sorry I can't help you about the license plate light, it's weird...
ahhhh mannnn, any particular reason why?

I'm gonna guess Durability!?
 
#93 ·
LanceG said:
ahhhh mannnn, any particular reason why?

I'm gonna guess Durability!?
Yes, it looks (ant it's) safer, and more durable :D
And this type of lock crimp are really easy to use :)
 
#94 ·
Hi,

Appreciate this is an old thread but to keep all info consolidated and in one thread I recently did this.
Installed darklines hi versions (LED) bars to my pre lci (2005) e87 with xenons.
As per the guide wasn't too bad just needed re ordering of wiring and to get led bars to work just wired to number plate lights.
The only bit of info I can contribute to help others is if you are fitting to pre lci and you have the black harness connectors going into the back of the lights the correct spade connector is 61130056965. The cost from bmw is £2.00 + vat.
You get a bit of wire and you two connectors on each end! So you only need one of the above part number for two spade connectors.
I know there are several work arounds such as simply pushing wire into the block and securing with tape etc, however for the cost it's worth it as the connector seats in as it should. Zero play and secure as it can ever be.

If you check real OEM the connectors suggested have been changed to those that fit into the white version of the connectors (61138364832) which is what I ordered originally and found they were literally a hair width too wide and would not fit no matter how much I tried.
So after a bit of searching by the parts department the part number in the picture is the correct version for pre lci.
HTH.
 

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