FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

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FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Sun Oct 15, 2017 3:41 pm

The issue: Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / Cruise Control issues / ABS & DTC Issues / Jerky Power Restrictions. Symptoms commonly starts as TC intervention during left or right hand bends, then on straights, then near constantly.

Diagnosis: Turn all your traction control nannies off my holding the DTC button for around 5 seconds, then re-test your car carefully. We don't advise trying this test in slippery/dangerous conditions for obvious reasons! If your rings are bad enough, they may also throw a 'Wheel speed sensor rear extrapolation' error. You can also check the wheel speed sensors via live monitoring of the wheel speed sensor outputs using a laptop and BMW software or similar.

The usual cause: Rusty rear driveshafts. The driveshafts corrode, and the rust causes the Reluctor/s ring to expand, and sometimes crack too. If the ring expands enough, it will make contact with the wheel speed (ABS) sensor. Here's a good photo courtesy of Teasdas, note the crack and shiny area (witness of contact):

Image

Solution: Basically you need a new reluctor ring, and most probably a new ABS sensors too. No coding required. Reluctor rings are available from eBay for around £5.

Image

Method (courtesy of dozydoog):

The hub nut (Number 4 in the image below) should not be an issue, it' simply a 30mm or 32mm socket job but the nut is staked to the grooves in the end of the drive shaft, these need knocking out before you wind the nut off to avoid thread damage. Breaker bar makes easy work of the factory 190nm if someone applies footbrake with engine running

The splines will be tight, wind nut off about 3mm then find a bar that fits inside the nut and apply a solid whack with a lump hammer. please dont hit the nut or the driveshaft end with the nut removed, you will cause damage, mine went with the first solid blow. needs a new nut on re-assembly. If it's really stuck, soak with 'Plus Gas', leave overnight and retry in the morning. Never be tempted to strike the end of the M24 shaft, you'll peen it over and wreck the thread. If you have to, use a plastic / hide or other soft hammer.

Once the drive shaft has moved tighten it back into original position but only to low torque

Image

To split the driveshaft, the 6 drive shaft to axle torx bolts (Numbered 3 in the image above) have to be removed with care, do not damage the inner cv joint gaitors. You will need a assistant to lock the wheel in various position with a bar placed across 2 replaced wheel studs as you need to rotate the shaft to get at each bolt in turn.

Shaft should now compress and clear the diff casing. The issue is on the nearside where rear 2 exhaust mounts need to be eased off to allow the shaft to clear the diff, once done the shaft can be knocked from the hub a 2nd time, much easier.

Ok, on mine the amount of rust under the ring had expaned it by at least 1mm. quick crack cross the ring with a chisel and it's off.
by the time the rust was chipped off, ire brushed, filed off and emery'd i'd guess there was .25mm clearance with the new , we had to use epoxy as loctite would not have done.

reverse for putting back together, but again, mind the drive shaft gaitors. getting enough thread showing through the hub to engage the nut will be a problem, ensure everything is cleaned and lightly oiled then tap with a soft hammer on the inner face of the drive shaft until the threads can be accessed.

E Driveshaft male torx bolts vary with car model:
M8 bolts - 52Nm
M10 bolts - 80Nm

(drivers side is much simpler due to no exhaust)

Whole job about 1 1/2 hours for an old git like me and in total for both sides was £13, £4 each reluctor ring and £5 for the epoxy as had run out.

An alternative to glue-on rings are the heat-on variety, see here for a turotial:



It's good practice to replace the 6 driveshaft bolts and hub nut, parts available from Cotswold BMW or your local friendly parts counter. Just give them the last 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct parts for your car.

Alternative fixes: If you don't fancy gluing a new ring on to your old shaft, you can buy a replacement pattern drive-shaft for around £100 from various motor-factors.

Disclaimer: This FAQ post is intended to be as balanced and accurate as possible, but this thread should be considered as opinion only. We can not be held responsible for injury, damage or expense caused.
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by SpaceTofu » Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:51 pm

This has been really written at the right time, thanks marco_polo!
Some weeks ago I had the intermittent Traction Control warning light coming off and cutting down my engine / braking on a straight, non slippery stretch of motorway road at constant speed.
Never happened again till the day before yesterday, when it is showing up quite frequently.

I can imagine it means that the reluctor ring has expanded quite much now and it is frequently touching the ABS sensor.

Being very lucky, I actually brought the car to the garage literally last week and I can't be bothered to take it down again, seeing also as we have planned an appointment two months down the line to replace anyway the brake pads; I reckon all this could be tackled there and then, but I have some questions:
- is disabling the DSC and DTC going to compromise the ABS intervention? I doubt so but would like a confirmation
- can the continuous expansion of the reluctor ring permanently ruin or temporarily hinder the ABS capability to understand there is a need to intervene?
- overall, understanding the risks of driving with DSC and DTC disabled, is this something that needs attention asap or you reckon can wait 2 months? (I drive approximately 1500 miles per month).
Thanks!
E87 116d 2010 N47

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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:22 pm

Disabling the DTC doesn't disable ABS braking, but dodgy wheel speed sensors to compromise the ABS function as it's getting erroneous signals. It will return to normal/safe condition once the rings and sensors are repaired, no permanent damage/memory.

I'd want them done reasonably quickly. An insurance company might argue the car isn't in a roadworthy state with defective ABS/DTC, why give them any wiggle room!
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by SpaceTofu » Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:05 pm

so In essence, disabling the DTC gets rid of the annoyance of the car slowing down randomly, ABS is still working per se but because the sensors are anyway screwed up, could compromise the ABS functionality for the moment being?

I totally understand that a car is unsafer without the ABS/DTC, but if I were to drive a Renault Clio of the year 1998 i would probably be in the same situation (w/o ABS, traction control etcetc.)
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:11 pm

No ABS could be safer than malfunctioning ABS though? The car will be releasing the brakes when it shouldn't, that could actually make the car less stable than a nice old (skidding) Clio? Not sure I'd want the car thinking just one wheel has locked up, effectively disabling that calliper?

Up to you though, none of my business. :)
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by SpaceTofu » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:05 am

Definitely a good point, thank you for all of your inputs marco_polo, extremely helpful as usual!
E87 116d 2010 N47

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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by msmith96 » Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:25 am

Hi, recently got myself an 07 plate E87 and I've found that I'm having the same issues as those mentioned above, I've drove it round this week with the DSC/DTC all disabled and found it stops the random breaking etc but obviously I don't wish to be driving round like this forever, could this cause CCID-24, 42 & 50 (DBC Brake Assist Failure, Brake and Driving Control Failure & Tyre Monitoring Failure) to all show up?

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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:37 am

msmith96 wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:25 am
Hi, recently got myself an 07 plate E87 and I've found that I'm having the same issues as those mentioned above, I've drove it round this week with the DSC/DTC all disabled and found it stops the random breaking etc but obviously I don't wish to be driving round like this forever, could this cause CCID-24, 42 & 50 (DBC Brake Assist Failure, Brake and Driving Control Failure & Tyre Monitoring Failure) to all show up?
Yes.

The Tyre Pressure Monitoring System works via the wheel speed sensors and reluctor rings. Basically, the TPMS expects all the wheels to rotate at roughly the same speeds. If one wheel suddenly becomes smaller in diameter (puncture), it will rotate faster than the others, which gets detected and flagged on the dash. If the TPMS isn't getting sensible readings from the wheel speed sensors it will throw CC-ID 50.

24 and 42 are obviously easily connected to the wheel speed sensors / reluctor rings.
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by Kittybmw » Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:24 am

I have this problem and I've checked the reluctors rings which look good and nothing is rubbing on the sensors,
Atm I'm driving with the dtc switched off which isn't ideal in wet weather,any ideas what else it could be?
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:27 am

Does DTC off cure the issue?
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by Kittybmw » Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:44 pm

Yeah it's ok when it's off
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:50 pm

Kittybmw wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:44 pm
Yeah it's ok when it's off
Yours will be the first of over a hundred cars which isn't reluctor ring/abs sensor related, how weird. I'd definitely remove the sensors from the car and inspect them yourself, just to completely rule them out as the source of your problems. Check their wiring and connectors too.
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by Fraserb64 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:48 pm

marco_polo wrote:
Sun Oct 15, 2017 3:41 pm
The issue: Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / Cruise Control issues / ABS & DTC Issues / Jerky Power Restrictions. Symptoms commonly starts as TC intervention during left or right hand bends, then on straights, then near constantly.

Diagnosis: Turn all your traction control nannies off my holding the DTC button for around 5 seconds, then re-test your car carefully. We don't advise trying this test in slippery/dangerous conditions for obvious reasons! If your rings are bad enough, they may also throw a 'Wheel speed sensor rear extrapolation' error. You can also check the wheel speed sensors via live monitoring of the wheel speed sensor outputs using a laptop and BMW software or similar.

The usual cause: Rusty rear driveshafts. The driveshafts corrode, and the rust causes the Reluctor/s ring to expand, and sometimes crack too. If the ring expands enough, it will make contact with the wheel speed (ABS) sensor. Here's a good photo courtesy of Teasdas, note the crack and shiny area (witness of contact):

Image

Solution: Basically you need a new reluctor ring, and most probably a new ABS sensors too. No coding required. Reluctor rings are available from eBay for around £5.

Image

Method (courtesy of dozydoog):

The hub nut (Number 4 in the image below) should not be an issue, it' simply a 30mm or 32mm socket job but the nut is staked to the grooves in the end of the drive shaft, these need knocking out before you wind the nut off to avoid thread damage. Breaker bar makes easy work of the factory 190nm if someone applies footbrake with engine running

The splines will be tight, wind nut off about 3mm then find a bar that fits inside the nut and apply a solid whack with a lump hammer. please dont hit the nut or the driveshaft end with the nut removed, you will cause damage, mine went with the first solid blow. needs a new nut on re-assembly. If it's really stuck, soak with 'Plus Gas', leave overnight and retry in the morning. Never be tempted to strike the end of the M24 shaft, you'll peen it over and wreck the thread. If you have to, use a plastic / hide or other soft hammer.

Once the drive shaft has moved tighten it back into original position but only to low torque

Image

To split the driveshaft, the 6 drive shaft to axle torx bolts (Numbered 3 in the image above) have to be removed with care, do not damage the inner cv joint gaitors. You will need a assistant to lock the wheel in various position with a bar placed across 2 replaced wheel studs as you need to rotate the shaft to get at each bolt in turn.

Shaft should now compress and clear the diff casing. The issue is on the nearside where rear 2 exhaust mounts need to be eased off to allow the shaft to clear the diff, once done the shaft can be knocked from the hub a 2nd time, much easier.

Ok, on mine the amount of rust under the ring had expaned it by at least 1mm. quick crack cross the ring with a chisel and it's off.
by the time the rust was chipped off, ire brushed, filed off and emery'd i'd guess there was .25mm clearance with the new , we had to use epoxy as loctite would not have done.

reverse for putting back together, but again, mind the drive shaft gaitors. getting enough thread showing through the hub to engage the nut will be a problem, ensure everything is cleaned and lightly oiled then tap with a soft hammer on the inner face of the drive shaft until the threads can be accessed.

E Driveshaft male torx bolts vary with car model:
M8 bolts - 52Nm
M10 bolts - 80Nm

(drivers side is much simpler due to no exhaust)

Whole job about 1 1/2 hours for an old git like me and in total for both sides was £13, £4 each reluctor ring and £5 for the epoxy as had run out.

An alternative to glue-on rings are the heat-on variety, see here for a turotial:



It's good practice to replace the 6 driveshaft bolts and hub nut, parts available from Cotswold BMW or your local friendly parts counter. Just give them the last 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct parts for your car.

Alternative fixes: If you don't fancy gluing a new ring on to your old shaft, you can buy a replacement pattern drive-shaft for around £100 from various motor-factors.

Disclaimer: This FAQ post is intended to be as balanced and accurate as possible, but this thread should be considered as opinion only. We can not be held responsible for injury, damage or expense caused.
Hi Marco

Helpful as always, is there an uprated driveshaft option?
I saw something the other (trying to find link atm), I think it was for a 135i but could be wrong.

Thanks

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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by marco_polo » Tue Feb 20, 2018 11:15 pm

Nope, no updated parts to my knowledge.
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Re: FAQ - Traction Control Errors / Random braking / Instability Problems / ABS & DTC Issues

Post by Kittybmw » Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:55 am

Thx Marco, I will take a look as soon as I get a chance 👍
Silver 2009 118d es n47 front 8.5 x18 rear 9 x 18 with rolled arches

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