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Machine polishing

5K views 27 replies 14 participants last post by  Sam1er 
#1 ·
Need to machine polish my car to get rid of swirls and a few light scratches. Was looking at buying this kit
Is this a good kit to start considering I've never done this before?
 
#2 ·
I can't see why there would be any problem with using that kit.

There's probably a lot of variety you can choose from anyway perhaps even cheaper.

At the end of the day I think machine polishing is more about technique, patience and preparation.

You wanna clean the car very throughly followed by decontaminating with iron x and clay bar before you even consider machine'ing it. Makes the job easier and better results.

Someone on here might be able to advise in a better machine for you.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Hmmmm..

The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)

Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!

If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
 
#4 ·
Blackroc said:
Hmmmm..

The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)

Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!

If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
Is the rupes LHR21ES a better polisher for the BMWs? And what pads would you recommend for compounding/polishing?
 
#6 ·
two-three-five-aaaayt said:
Blackroc said:
Hmmmm..

The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)

Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!

If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
Is the rupes LHR21ES a better polisher for the BMWs? And what pads would you recommend for compounding/polishing?
The Rupes is a much better machine, however get the LHR15 not the 21 - the number dictates the amount of throw (distance the machine head moves in one spin) and the 21 is too much to use around handles / fragile areas.

However, if it HAS to be the 21, look at the identical machine by Vertool:
 
#7 ·
I use a Rupes, and must say it's an awesome machine. Need to invest in another with a smaller size for those intricate areas!
 
#8 ·
any recommendations for a good budget polisher? (<100) or is it no such thing? don't want to spend money if it's not really worth it but also I don't feel the need to get an all singing all dancing one. Cheers!
 
#9 ·
cameronmurray3 said:
any recommendations for a good budget polisher? (<100) or is it no such thing? don't want to spend money if it's not really worth it but also I don't feel the need to get an all singing all dancing one. Cheers!
in2detailing are selling the das6pro for £100.. don't forget you will need accompanying pads and polish/compound ;)

I went for scholl s20 and their honey and purple pads.. although would recommend their navy blue pad if you have some deep scratches too.
 
#11 ·
cadmunkey said:
Boombap said:
I went for scholl s20 and their honey and purple pads..
Good rec, the Scholl is superb on BMW paint.
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
Yeah depends whether you have the time, patience and determination to do it yourself.

I did and for probably half the cost of a professional detailer.

I'm sure if you know the right person can be done for cheaper, but that will probably be more akin to doing it yourself.

Also just using your machine twice, makes it money well spent(in investment terms).
 
#12 ·
cadmunkey said:
Boombap said:
I went for scholl s20 and their honey and purple pads..
Good rec, the Scholl is superb on BMW paint.
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
good point well made, i'm trying to keep it sensible and not get too caught up on brands and products. Theres a guy where i live that will do it for around 220 quid for a 2 stage, however I wouldn't mind trying it as a learning experience. I might be so sick of it i'll never try it again!!

I'm thinking wash, tar, rinse, iron remover, wash, (maybe clay), megs compound, IPA wipe, SRP, then megs gold class carnuba (or maybe i'll buy something better). On the bright side i already have said products so thats something i suppose. Thinking of getting these two items:


 
#13 ·
cameronmurray3 said:
cadmunkey said:
Boombap said:
I went for scholl s20 and their honey and purple pads..
Good rec, the Scholl is superb on BMW paint.
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
good point well made, i'm trying to keep it sensible and not get too caught up on brands and products. Theres a guy where i live that will do it for around 220 quid for a 2 stage, however I wouldn't mind trying it as a learning experience. I might be so sick of it i'll never try it again!!

I'm thinking wash, tar, rinse, iron remover, wash, (maybe clay), megs compound, IPA wipe, SRP, then megs gold class carnuba (or maybe i'll buy something better). On the bright side i already have said products so thats something i suppose. Thinking of getting these two items:


I'd recommend sticking to well know brands for the pads mate, as they will make the most difference :)

To make things easier I clayed my car on a previous day
 
#14 ·
I'd probably get a das6 ...(same machine just 60 cheaper)


Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut

Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.

A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.

Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.

[emoji106]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
rtorbs said:
I'd probably get a das6 ...(same machine just 60 cheaper)


Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut

Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.

A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.

Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.

[emoji106]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
The PRO is more powerful (850w)

But if the standard is enough then go for it, although I haven't used it so can't comment.
 
#17 ·
Boombap said:
rtorbs said:
I'd probably get a das6 ...(same machine just 60 cheaper)


Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut

Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.

A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.

Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.

[emoji106]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
The PRO is more powerful (850w)

But if the standard is enough then go for it, although I haven't used it so can't comment.
No that was my bad, I meant to link the pro....it's £114

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
Boombap said:
cadmunkey said:
Boombap said:
The PRO is more powerful (850w)

But if the standard is enough then go for it, although I haven't used it so can't comment.
Just bear in mind, the Pro doesnt support the smaller backing plates, whereas the standard does. Both very good machines.
Incorrect, the one I recommended comes with both 5" and 3" backing plates.

Ah sorry it was the Pro plus I was thinking of. I made that mistake when I bought it as my first machine. Moved onto Rupes a while ago now.
 
#22 ·
Hi folks.

Even after having my car detailed a few weeks ago, in bright sunlight I can see lots of swirls.

I was convinced this was my fault even though I pressure rinse, snow foam, rinse, 2 bucket wash and rinse. Sometimes followed with quick detailing spray. I wash with an Angelwax mitt and dry using their big, thick towels.
Someone has said they think the swirls are due to the detailer using a rotary polisher??

They've pointed me in the direction of the Polished Bliss sight and said I could buy:

Kestrel DAS-6 or Kestrel Power Plus dual action polishers along with Flexipads DA microfibres cutting discs and Meguiar's microfiber correction compound.

They said this should be good enough for the swirls, and me having never tried this, and I really can't do any damage to the paint with this?

I don't know anything and trust their advice but I always welcome more opinions :-o

Thanks
 
#23 ·
A photo could be useful here Richie. When you say swirls do you mean micro-scratches in the paint or buffer trails? If its buffer trails then these have more than likely been done by the 'detailer' and need correction. Why not take it back and have a word with him if you paid him before shelling out on new kit?
 
#24 ·
Hi,

Having trouble getting a photo...and being able to post it :eek2:
When you say buffer trails...that was something that was mentioned as well as swirls.

I should add that I had a protection detail rather than a paint correction if that matters?

And yes, the obvious thing is to speak to the guy :eek: but it was also still a question about the things mentioned as in the long term I guess I could save money. I've always been a bit scared of trying a machine polisher for fear of making a big mess.

I'm assuming the main thing is having the time to wash/clay it then use the machine. With working shifts I might be able to do a panel or 2 but then nothing for 3 or 4 days as I'll have the car to go to work.

Cheers
 
#25 ·
Theres nothing stopping you from doing 1 or 2 panels at a time. Not everyone will be able to spare a full day or 2 to get a car fully decontaminated and polished up. Iv heard of many people doing their cars this way. Just make sure you apply some wax or sealant after all the hard work :)

With regards to the detail, you need to see what was actually done on your car. are you sure it was machine polished? Some details do not involve machine polishing. Its best to speak to the detailer. The terminology used for different packages can vary from 1 detailer to the next. They may have details of their packages on their website or facebook, worth checking there to see what your detail involved.
 
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