Would be keen to see one if you can upload to datazap. The cold start is not something I've tried yet as I read it caused the idle to become lumpy, this may be E series specific though.
Definitely still developing E series seeing as there is a sizeable update just been released yesterday (beta) and MHD did actually respond to a question regarding late E-series today here
I imagine F series takes priority, as there are a much larger number of users for it. But hopefully anything learned from it will filter to the late E series.
Yes, it is reversible in the sense that you can flash back to stock...however that does not mean that tampering with the ECU map would be rendered invisible after reverting back. It's all about who is looking and how hard they want to look. Anyone who says their tune (or rather the process that they use to tune) is "untraceable" is lying to you.
I am going to install MHD on my car when the K+DCAN cable finally arrives. The advice is to have a battery charger connected when flashing. I have a ctek msx 5.0, would this be suitable? I will connect the charger the night before flashing to make sure the battery is fully topped up and leave it on while flashing.
TIA.
I am going to install MHD on my car when the K+DCAN cable finally arrives. The advice is to have a battery charger connected when flashing. I have a ctek msx 5.0, would this be suitable? I will connect the charger the night before flashing to make sure the battery is fully topped up and leave it on while flashing.
TIA.
I'm looking at going down the MHD route, mainly for the cold start delete as my BCS powervalve rattles super loud during the cold start. I'd also go for the Stage 2 map once I've fitted a CSF intercooler.
What was the total cost for it all, is it iOS compatible or Android only?
I'm looking at going down the MHD route, mainly for the cold start delete as my BCS powervalve rattles super loud during the cold start. I'd also go for the Stage 2 map once I've fitted a CSF intercooler.
What was the total cost for it all, is it iOS compatible or Android only?
Do you need the better intercooler to do the Stage 2+? I am thinking about MHD for the cold start removal too, will it be putting much more strain on the engine than the JB4 on Map5?
I have a high flow DP, intake and charge pipe, but stock intercooler, it runs well on the JB4
I'm looking at going down the MHD route, mainly for the cold start delete as my BCS powervalve rattles super loud during the cold start. I'd also go for the Stage 2 map once I've fitted a CSF intercooler.
What was the total cost for it all, is it iOS compatible or Android only?
Yup - I had one on my m135i [Wagner Comp evo 2] - only changed it once I ran my Jb4 at higher boost psi with octane booster ie map 5 and map 7. Heatsoak was very noticeable. From my experience of Jb4 m135i in UK climate OE FMIC is fine upto ~ 16psi.
It's worth noting that p/backs work differently to remaps as they fool DME into providing more boost. Whereas OBD remaps are more sophisticated, in that can get similar gains c/w lower boost levels. Heat management is a common issue though, hence higher flo DP will always be a given - to keep EGT's in check and reduce thermal stress on turbo - I'd be willing to bet FMIC upgrade is 'CYA' by tuners and slant to get us to spend more £££ on bolt-ons.....
Yup - I had one on my m135i [Wagner Comp evo 2] - only changed it once I ran my Jb4 at higher boost psi with octane booster ie map 5 and map 7. Heatsoak was very noticeable. From my experience of Jb4 m135i in UK climate OE FMIC is fine upto ~ 16psi.
It's worth noting that p/backs work differently to remaps as they fool DME into providing more boost. Whereas OBD remaps are more sophisticated, in that can get similar gains c/w lower boost levels. Heat management is a common issue though, hence higher flo DP will always be a given - to keep EGT's in check and reduce thermal stress on turbo - I'd be willing to bet FMIC upgrade is 'CYA' by tuners and slant to get us to spend more £££ on bolt-ons.....
Yup - I had one on my m135i [Wagner Comp evo 2] - only changed it once I ran my Jb4 at higher boost psi with octane booster ie map 5 and map 7. Heatsoak was very noticeable. From my experience of Jb4 m135i in UK climate OE FMIC is fine upto ~ 16psi.
It's worth noting that p/backs work differently to remaps as they fool DME into providing more boost. Whereas OBD remaps are more sophisticated, in that can get similar gains c/w lower boost levels. Heat management is a common issue though, hence higher flo DP will always be a given - to keep EGT's in check and reduce thermal stress on turbo - I'd be willing to bet FMIC upgrade is 'CYA' by tuners and slant to get us to spend more £££ on bolt-ons.....
1. you can log data with MHD app on yr android to see how yr car is behaving.
2. Heatsoak is well monitored/managed by ECU
If you experience a lot of heatsoak - which I doubt here in the UK and want to mitigate ECU intervention then you can decide if you want to install upgraded FMIC or stay as-is.
Be warned thou - not all FMIC are created equally some may weight a ton, some have great heat transfer but rubbish pressure delta across inlet to outlet so whilst yr IAT's look great the lag will grate after a while....
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