M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

All things M135i related can be found in here

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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky

Post by rusty13 » Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:16 pm

Wheel Alignment

M135i

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M235i

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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky

Post by rusty13 » Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:23 pm

Standard Service Intervals

The M-Performance models are assigned the already familiar standard intervals of the BMW models.

A running-in check is not carried out on these vehicles.

These cars have condition based servicing enabled, but they typically adhere to the following guidelines/intervals.

Vehicles concerned:

F20: M135i, M135i xDrive M140i, M140i xDrive
F21: M135i; M135i xDrive M140i, M140i xDrive
F22: M235i, M235i xDrive M240i, M240i xDrive
F23: M235i, M235i xDrive M240i, M240i xDrive

Country specific deviations may apply. For countries with lower-quality fuel grades, comply with the country-specific intervals.

Engine Oil
Change engine oil approximately every 30,000 km/24 months.

Microfilter
Renew at every engine oil change (approx. 30,000 km).

Air filter
Renew at every 2nd engine oil change (approx. 60,000 km).

Spark plugs
Renew at every 2nd engine oil change (approx. 60,000 km).

Vehicle Check
Carry out vehicle check for every 2nd engine oil change (approx. 60,0000 km), after 48 months at the latest.

Brake Fluid
Renew at 36 months, then every 24 months thereafter.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky

Post by rusty13 » Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:39 pm

Rear Differential / Final Drive Oil Change

BMW suggest that the oil in the standard rear diff is good for the life of the car. Anyone who knows anything about engineering, maintenance or cars will probably tell you that BMW just want to maintain a good after sales volume for replacement diffs. The hypoid gear arrangement in the rear diff puts the gear teeth under high load, making it a challenging environment for the average diff oil.

Marco polo has already written a good how-to for changing rear diff oil here: viewtopic.php?t=77919

Replace the O-ring and put a magnetic plug in if you wish. Torque to 60nm, or 45ftlb

Final-drive and hypoid transmission oil must fulfil the following requirements for handling high loads as arise at the tooth flanks of the hypoid gear:
- high load-carrying capacity
- good protection against scoring/scuffing
- good protection against wear
- optimum frictional behaviour and temperature stability
- compatibility with sealing materials
- resistance to ageing

BMW have approved the following types of hypoid oil (hypoid oils for final drive without disc-type limited-slip differential):

As of model year 07/2011:

Hypoid Axle Oil G1 (BOT448) (BMW Part Number 83 22 2 295 532)
(for all rear axle differentials apart from M vehicles)

Specific Hypoid oils released by name:

-AGIP HLX
-Aral transmission oil BS
-Castrol SAF‐X0
-Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W-90
-Castrol Syntrax B 75W-85
-Dearon BHS
-FINA PONTONIC MS
-FINA PONTONIC MX
-Veedol SAF 66
-Mobil Gearlube VS 600
-BP Energear SHX
-VALVOLINE SynPower Gear Oil GL-5 Society of Automotive Engineers 75W-90
-TRANSELF BM 75W‐-90
-Shell transmission oil OLS‐BMW
-Westfalen Fugo BMO
-MOTUL HYPO SYNT
-Avia Hypoid 75W‐-90 EP
-Esso transmission oil NLS 75W‐-90
-Fuchs TITAN Gear H 75W‐-90
-Wintershall gear fluid BOS
-TOTAL Transmission ALD Society of Automotive Engineers 75W-90

Note:
The above oils satisfy the demands required of lifetime oils in the eyes of BMW.

My diff will be getting a fresh bottle of GL5 Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W-90, straight from Amazon.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky

Post by rusty13 » Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:50 pm

Manual Gearbox Oil Change

The M135i/M235i manual is a box manufactured by ZF. The box is a GS6-45BZ/DZ. BMW suggest the oil is a lifetime fill, however I'll be changing mine.

Marco Polo has written a great how-to for changing your gear-box oil here: viewtopic.php?t=25263

A few M135i specific notes to make:

Oil drain and fill plugs should be torqued to 40Nm, or 30ftlb.

Manual gearbox oil MTF- LT-5 is BMW part number 83 22 2 156 969. I'll be using official BMW fluid as it's cheap enough.

Oil capacity on the M135i manual gearbox is 1.2 litres.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:58 pm

Track Day Prep

If you're thinking of taking your pride and joy on a private track, bare in mind that your normal road insurance policy (normally) won't cover you, or anyone else. Most people will buy additional TD insurance (unless they're driving a dedicated, disposable track slag), from a company such as https://www.moris.co.uk/Track-day-insurance. Some people will risk it, the choice is yours!

Next thing to consider are the rules of the track themselves. Most will require you to meet certain noise limits, breaching these will result in an early bath and no refund. A 140i with an MPE could be too loud, or a stock exhaust plus JB4 map2 (viewtopic.php?t=98587) you have been warned! You'll also need a safe and roadworthy car (obviously), a helmet (or hire one of their stinky skid-lids), and possibly long sleeves/trousers too. Some track will allow filming/Go-Pro's, some won't. Read all the terms and conditions carefully, a few days beforehand.

Sensible car prep - Obviously check your fluids are all fully maxed (or even marginlly over filled), you don't want oil starvation because you forget to top it off, etc. Bleed your calipers too, so they're full of fresher brake fluid. Also, try your helmet on in the car before you go, you might find it clunks annoyingly on the grab handle, in which case you might want to whip it off (a couple of torx screws from memory). You might also want a CG lock or similar seat belt clamp on the lap belt section of your seatbelt to help prevent you sliding around on the leather. If you're fitting a video camera, make sure it's got a nice secure mount. Riding kerbs can result in big vibrations.

Possible car mods - We've already covered exhaust noise, which may require you to fit a quieter system or additional mufflers. If you're happy to go out for half a dozen laps at a time (approx) a standard car will be fine. If you want to stay out for longer sessions, you will want to consider hotter brake fluid (like RBF600), and hotter pads (as the stock Jurids can overheat and glaze). M4 pads take the heat a little better than stock, or you could go aftermarket for some proper track day pads (like Carbotech, Carbone Lorraine, or Endless Pads). If you're staying out, you'll probably want a set of semi-slick tyres too, as the stock MPSS will melt. Inexpensive semi's include Nankang NS-R2's & Federal 595RSR, medium price range include Toyo R888 & Yoko AD08R's, dearer options might include Kumho V70a and Michelin Cup 2's.

It's necessary to lower your tyre pressures as they heat up, so pack a good gauge (I like a RaceX) and a compressor. I like 35 - 36 psi hot (which equates to about 28psi cold). Don't jump straight to 28psi though, as the car will think you have 4 punctures and prevent you from using Sport mode. Chase your pressures down during your pit stops.

Behaviour - Don't be that guy. There's always one douche-nozzle who get's black flagged for being a total bell. :roll: If it's your first trackday just take it easy. You will have some sighting laps behind the safety car (and some other cars) at first to get used to the track. Observe the flags and obey the Marshalls, they're there to help keep you safe. Don't try and race anyone or keep up with anyone, just go at your own pace and use your mirrors! You will be amazed how quickly some of the experts catch up to you, even in standard looking slow cars. And pull over asap if someone wants to pass you. Build up the speed as you learn and progress. Don't be embarrassed to hire an instructor for some tuition, it will knock many seconds off your lap times. Find out from the Marshalls if they'll tolerate any exuberant oversteer/drifting, some will; some will black flag you.

The car is going to get hot, brakes in particular - try not to cook the fluid. It's sensible to perform a couple of cool down laps before coming back to the pits. This gives the brakes time to dissipate some temperature before coming back to the pits. If you stop with roasting hot anchors, the fluid inside the callipers will soon reach boiling point, which is obviously bad news as nobody wants brake fade, and that long pedal.

The rear brakes can 'Temp-out' if you do too many laps with the nannies on, as they fight with any wheel spin. Annoyingly, this 'Temp' is guestimated by the ECU (rather than directly measured), so it won't make any difference if you have high performance pads and fluid. :evil:

Take a litre of oil top-up with you, especially if the car wasn't run-in very sympathetically when new.

Most importantly, be safe, and have fun. :D

-----------------------------------------

Professional Feedback from Bathurst 6 hour winning M135i - essential track day tips

Huge thanks to David Levy Motorsports for sharing this invaluable information about racing and winning with their basically standard M135i in endurance racing, the hardest test of durability that there is.

If you’re worried about reliability when tracking your M135i/M235i you shouldn’t be!

OIL SURGE
We don't really seem to have any issues with oil surge. We ran around 750ml extra of oil (good quality oil is key here, we use liquidly 10w60 in this particular car). There are various baffles available on the market (we recently fit one to an N54), but unsure how it will go at this point.

COOLING
Never had an issue with cooling on the engine; the diffs do get fairly warm due to the small capacity of them, so we do run a diff cooler.

CAMBER
Negative camber is a huge issue with these cars, in the Bathhurst rules we have to run standard arms, so we got all of our neg camber via camber tops. For yourself I would recommend purchasing M2 lower control arms, that will give you a touch bit more camber and if you're still searching for more, get camber tops.

RECOMMENDATIONS
Recommendations on what you can do to the car, suspension, good brake pads, good tyres, exhaust (no cat converter or rear muffler) we even had to run standard sway bars. Our Bathurst car was very basic, no special tricks or crazy race car mods, just good drivers.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Sun Oct 22, 2017 12:04 pm

Model Year Differences - very rough guide.

Summer 2012 - M135i Launched with small turbo featuring Pneumatic Waste Gate (PWG), - Advance Speakers are free initially
Summer 2013 - Turbo upgraded with larger outlet, Electric Waste Gate (EWG), and slightly more power. Auto lights and wipers now standard.
Spring 2014 - New steering wheel & in-wheel pressure / temp sensors
Summer 2014 - SOS button / comms box standard
Spring 2015 - Life Cycle Impulse (cosmetic Face Lift), Extended storage standard, LED headlights replace Xenons.
Summer 2015 - Sat Nav and Full Black Panel standard
Summer 2016 - M140i replaces M135i with new more powerful / efficient B58 engine, former suspension and new auto ratios. Melbourne Red now available
Summer 2017 - LCI2 released. New dashboard & dials. Shadow Edition introduced, new wheel option. Sunset Orange replaces Valencia, Glacier Silver discontinued. Cognac replaces Coral leather.
Spring 2018 - M140i upgraded with 'Rock Guards' - see post 24 below.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Thu Nov 09, 2017 6:27 pm

Ping/Knock/Twang/Crack When Reversing on Full Lock

It's perfectly normal and correct to hear a ping/twang when reversing on full lock due to the Ackermann geometry. It's literally dragging the tyre, which eventually has to catch up when the force overcomes the sidewall deflection & grip. Both of mine have done it on full lock reverse, always seems much more noticable when the tyres are cold / during cold snaps.

Porsche, Mercedes (and other RWD cars) are known to make the same noise. Nothing to worry about.
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by .Griff. » Wed Dec 20, 2017 5:36 pm

Rattling noise from the rear on cold startup

What's the issue?

Many B58M owners are experiencing an issue where the valve in the left exhaust rattles on cold start-up.

Some cars appear to be affected more than others with some owners reporting issues days after collecting the car while others have gone months with no issue at all. This would suggest a manufacturing or tolerance issue and it appears to be down to poor luck whether your car is affected or not.

Here is an example courtesy of JD on Youtube -



Source/Credit - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-lwdF ... kT20qOgDLQ

What's the cause?

BMW state it is due to "Exhaust valve / rear silencer intolerances in the warm-up phase"

In other words, the valve/spring assembly isn't staying closed resulting in the noise that can be heard.

What cars are affected?

According to BMW the following models are affected -

F30, F32, F21, F20, F31, F22, F33, F36

Engine range - B58M

From start of production.

What can I do about it?

It's important to note that BMW is more than aware of the issue. At the time of writing this article, there is an ongoing PuMA case within BMW investigating the fault and looking for a resolution. More on this to follow.

If you find yourself affected by the fault and it's severe enough to bother you then make an appointment at a BMW centre to give them the opportunity to inspect the exhaust. It is important that as a customer you give the manufacturer this opportunity regardless of the outcome.

The standard response from BMW falls into one of two categories.

A, It's a characteristic of the car/engine.

B, BMW are looking for a fix.

While it's true that BMW are looking for a fix the "characteristic" statement is open to debate. After all, why would there be an ongoing PuMA case investigating the fault if it's merely a characteristic? Why don't all cars equipped with the B58M engine have the same noise? If it's a characteristic then surely the noise should have been present throughout.

What is a PuMA case?

PuMA is short for - Problem und Mebnahmenmanagement Aftersales. Essentially an internal database of faults and associated fixes.

This is the PuMA case regarding this issue, note I have censored certain information not relevant to this article -

Image

I've seen some people getting MPE's fitted for free. How?

It's important to state that it is VERY unlikely that BMW will offer to replace the standard exhaust with an MPE. This is poor business practice for them and hurts them financially so it's very much a last resort.

However, if your car is relatively new and you purchased it via PCP/PCH then your chances are increased.

As I said earlier it's critical that you log the fault with BMW and give them one opportunity to inspect it and offer a fix. More likely than not you'll be told one of the two responses I mentioned earlier but you've fulfilled your obligation of allowing the manufacturer the opportunity to rectify the fault. That is the aim of this step.

I recommend emailing, rather than telephoning, BMW UK Customer support - customer.service@bmw.co.uk - with your complaint.

If you have little or no success with BMW UK CS and you financed the car then email BMW Financial Services - csescalations@bmwfin.com - with your complaint.

How you word your complaint is down to the individual however I suggest you leave emotion out of it and stick to concise facts and explain your displeasure in driving an expensive and premium vehicle with an embarrassing fault.

Should you want any more assistance don't hesitate to PM me directly. Always happy to chat and help a fellow owner - http://www.babybmw.net/forum/memberlist ... le&u=25210
Gone - 135i M Sport DCT, Just picked up - SO M140i Shadow Edition 8ZF MPE

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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:16 pm

Aftermarket M-Lite wheel sizes / offsets.

Firstly, if you're going to buy a new set of wheels, make sure they're strong and of good quality. As a rule, cheap cast wheels are best avoided, as are inexpensive, poorly made replica rims.

Replica Wheels.jpg
Replica Wheels.jpg (149.27 KiB) Viewed 3739 times


Forged wheels (also know as roll-forged / roll-formed / RF / HLT / flow-formed / ff / flow-forged) are the ones to go for. Also, lighter is better to keep the all important unsprung weight down. Sadly finding cheap, lightweight, strong wheels isn't going to happen. You can pick any two of those qualities, but not all three. It's usually worth coughing up for a premium product, buy cheap = buy twice, or worse. :(

Stock wheel and tyre sizes:

7.5J x 18 ET45 - 225/40/18
8.0J x 18 ET52 - 245/35/18

5 x 120mm PCD, 72.6mm centre bore, 60° tapered bolt holes.

Optional BMW 19" Wheel Sizes:

7.5Jx19 ET45 - 225/35/19
8.0Jx19 ET52 - 245/30/19

It's important to note the front offset, as this is very carefully taken into account by the BMW suspension engineers. Going too far from this figure will mess with your scrub radius, which is obviously bad news.

BMW Performance Options

As a rule, most BMW rims aren't up to much, stock 436m's seem to be particularly soft/heavy/low quality. The notable exceptions are the 19" 624m and 405m wheels, which are lightweight forged wheels in the correct offsets. The only downside to those particular BMW rims is they tend to come with awful Runflat tyres, but they can always be replaced of course.

Common aftermarket sizes.

A square setup is a popular choice, most people go for 8.0J or 8.5J ET40 (plus or minus a couple of mm of offset).

For a staggered set-up, most people go for the above fronts, with 8.5J or 9.0J ET45 rears (again, plus or minus a couple of mm of offset).

Both of these will work with the stock tyres, or you can step up to a 245mm front if (like me) you find the skinny fronts a bit 'melty' under proper braking.
If you go for the wider staggered rears, you can step up to a 255mm rear if you wish (provided you've followed the offset guidance).

Stray too far from these sizes and you'll often end up with contact. For example, an 8.5J ET45 will rub on the front struts, and an 8.5j ET35 will poke out of the sides of the rear arches. The rear is generally considered to be the fussier fit, if you want to avoid your pride and joy looking like a Chav rollerskate.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/ is a useful site for comparing wheel specs, get a bit nervous if the new wheel pokes out much more than 18mm over stock, or is more than 10mm closer to the strut. Also, double check your new wheels will definitely clear the wide Brembo front callipers before buying:

Contact.jpg
Contact.jpg (188.75 KiB) Viewed 3995 times

If you have any doubts, or have non-standard suspension (longer M4 wishbones, etc), please feel free to throw up a 'will these fit' thread. Better to double check than be sorry.

Warning - Metal Dust Caps

If you have the active TPMS system with the thick metal valve stems, please use the plastic dust caps that came with your car (or a different plastic cap if you prefer). Fitting metal dust caps to metal valve stems usually results in them corroding together sooner or later. That results in snapped valves = flat tyre & stranded car. :(

Metal Dust Cap.jpg
Metal Dust Cap.jpg (53.51 KiB) Viewed 3547 times
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Sat May 05, 2018 10:29 am

B58 Radiator Weakness

Why has my car done a big wee on the drive? :(

There is a well known weakness with the radiator on the B48 & B58 engined cars (M140i, M240i, etc); this does not apply to the stronger N20 & N55 powered vehicles (M135i, M235i, etc). The B58 radiator is particularly flimsy, and prone to bursting from relatively minor stone strikes, losing all the coolant. Replacements cost circa £800 and are not usually covered by warranty, so ignore this post at your peril.

BMW themselves have effectively admitted this is a major problem by fitting cars built after December 2017 with two 'Rock Guards' (and new radiator mounts), pictured below. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... 7118485042:

Image

The prevailing advice is to remove your bumper, and retrofit some mesh to help prevent against Rad punctures. Most people are going with black aluminium mesh from Halfords, neatly fixed with cable ties. One pack should do both bottom grills, but you'll need two if you're protecting behind the kidneys too.

How to remove your bumper: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f20- ... r/Gu5BR3NS

Mesh photos, courtesy of 'Michellesburns':

Image

Image
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Re: M-Lite FAQ Sticky - Please Read Before Posting Frequently Asked Questions!

Post by marco_polo » Mon May 14, 2018 3:43 pm

Other Common/Known Niggles

3 Door paint wear

3 door cars suffer paint wear on the door shut over time, thanks to the two hard rubber seals on the door:

Image

The fix is 2 nice neat strips/boomerangs of helicopter tape on the B Pillar from new:

Image

Towing eye Vanishing

The M Sport bumper Towing Eye covers do not come with a lanyard, and often get pinched or even fly off when driving about. It's recommended to secure yours with a small blob or two of clear silicone sealer/similar non-permanent adhesive, or make your own leash if you're feeling cunning.

Rattley boot trim

Please see: viewtopic.php?t=70666

Corroding Exhaust Tips

I don't know what comes out of the tail pipes on our cars, but it's pretty nasty stuff. The driver's side (permanently open) gets the brunt of the corrosive compound.

Image

It's recommended to keep them clean, basically. A little FK P1000 can help protect them too. If they corrode during the warranty period BMW will often replace them without too much of a fight. If you're outside of warranty, the chrome tips from a 435i are a popular replacement - they still pit and corrode though, but not quite as fast.
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